Stand collar. Four options. Turn-down collar for a dress Patch collar pattern in full size

You can process the neck of a dress in various ways; one of the simplest ways is to decorate the neck with a turn-down collar.

Turn-down collars in a light dress can be cut without a connecting seam or from two halves. A turn-down collar can be single or consist of two parts, a lower and an upper collar.
The edges of the collars can be finished with a hemmed seam, a hemmed seam, or trimmed with a frill, lace, or piping.

Creating a turn-down collar pattern, even for a simple children's dress, is not as easy as it might seem. Any calculations used to construct the collar pattern will still have to be adjusted in the finished product. The collar may not fit well, the connecting seam along the neck may not match and turn out, etc.

The proposed scheme for constructing a turn-down collar is more suitable for sewing a children's dress. All collar sizes are approximate, you must adjust them according to this pattern according to your dress. Transfer the resulting pattern to the test fabric and connect the collar to the neck of the dress with a running stitch and try it on.

In order not to create a collar pattern yourself, you can use a ready-made turn-down collar pattern from various magazines. The convenience of such a pattern is that you can clearly see, from the available photo, what the finished collar will look like. Existing discrepancies in size and shape can be easily corrected.

If the collar is cut out of two parts (bottom and top), the top part is folded with the bottom right sides facing inward. Align the cuts and sweep away. Grind along the edge with the landing of the lower collar at the corners and curves. Seam width 0.5-0.7 cm.
The seam sections in the corners are trimmed, leaving an allowance of 0.2-0.3 cm. The basting threads are removed.
The collar is turned right side out, the corners and seams are straightened.
The collar is ironed from the side of the lower collar, forming an edge of the upper collar 0.1-0.2 cm wide.
If you are experiencing difficulties in collar processing edging, then it must be swept out in advance.

You can connect the collar to the neck of the dress in different ways. The figure shows two methods.
The first method involves edging the connecting seam with bias tape cut from the same fabric as the dress.
The second method is to connect both parts of the collar (lower and upper) in series with the neck.

First, grind the lower part of the collar, and then the upper part. Both the bottom and top parts need to be basted before sewing on the machine. The finishing stitch is given along the top of the collar.

Collar with adhesive pad

In collars with a fabric lining with a one-sided adhesive coating, the lining is applied with an adhesive coating to the underside of the lower or upper collar and glued with an iron.

If the collar is processed with a lining made of cotton fabric or proclamylene, the lining is placed on the wrong side of the lower collar and hemmed from the side of the lower collar.

In products made of wool, silk fabrics and fabrics containing synthetic fibers, the upper collar is folded with the interfacing with the wrong sides inward and basted, making the upper collar fit at the corners and curves. Then the upper collar is folded with the lower collar with the right sides inward and turned from the side of the lining along the basting line of the lining to the upper collar, or, stepping back from it towards the middle by 0.1 cm. The lining is cut out from the seam, leaving 0.1 cm. The collar is turned out on the front side, corners and seams are straightened. Sew the piping towards the lower collar. The collar is ironed from the side of the lower collar. The basting threads are removed.

In collars with a frill, the frill is placed inside out on the front side of the lower collar. The cuts are leveled and sharpened on the frill side. The number of gathers at the corners of the collar should be greater than at the edges.

After this, the lower collar is folded with the upper collar with the right sides inward and turned on the side of the lower collar. The stitch is placed in the stitching seam of the frill, or stepping back from it by 0.1-0.2 cm towards the middle of the collar. The collar is turned right side out. Corners and edges are straightened and ironed.

If the top collar is cut separately, it is folded with the bottom collar with the right sides facing inward. The cuts are leveled and ground on all sides, leaving a hole along the cut of the rack for turning out. The seam sections in the corners are trimmed, leaving an allowance of 0.2-0.3 cm. Through the hole left, the collar is turned right side out.

The corners and seams are straightened and basted, forming an edging from the upper collar. The collar is ironed from the side of the lower collar, the basting threads are removed. The opening left along the edge of the stand for turning out is stitched by machine or hemmed by hand using blind stitches. The cut of the stand can not be ground, but covered with a zigzag seam or edged, depending on the fraying of the fabric. Sections of single collars at the ends and flaps can be processed in the following ways: a hem seam with a closed cut, a strip of fabric, an edge seam and lace.

Good afternoon our dear readers!

In the next modeling lesson, we will look at one of the most interesting and extensive topics in design - collars.

To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). To do this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it using rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our website, select “basic dress pattern” and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly create your individual pattern, you can even print it on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.

Let’s start our “immersion” into the topic of modeling collars with the simplest and most understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand-up collars are built in the same way, sequentially, they just have different values and line configurations. Collars can have rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end-to-end, more or less adjacent to the neck. The clasp can be located both at the front and at the back.

Let's now look at the construction of the stand-up collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand-up collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and plot this value along a straight line. To ensure that the stand does not move away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the closer the stand will fit to the neck). Now set the desired height of the stand (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our stand-up collar. Don't forget to keep the height of the stand constant! The blue reference notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar, you will line it up with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand-up collar like on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the back neck minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the stand according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And we draw a beautiful stand! Also, don’t forget to check the height of the stand.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. This collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts into the stand-up lines.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the amount by how much one part of the shelf will overlap another). Usually this is about 2 cm for a central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to widen the neck of the front and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. Connect the resulting points with lines (red).

We decide on the height of the stand. In the example with a one-piece cut stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder section it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back we set aside the height of the stand along the continuation of the line, and in the area of the shoulder seam, draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition between the stand and the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we adjust the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw out the top cut of the stand, rounding it in front.

Now it's time to turn flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to transfer the shoulder dart on the back and the chest dart on the front into the armhole line - this way it is much more convenient to draw a flat collar. Now we place the back piece on the shelf, extending 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder section. We decide on the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! Along the middle back seam we set aside the largest value (5-6 cm), a little less along the shoulder seam (4.5 -5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has some item with such a collar. Most often they can be found wearing shirts. To simplify sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing a stand-up collar like on a blue blouse. As in stand-up collars, we initially draw a straight line for the length of the neck minus 0.5 cm. From one edge (where the middle back seam will be) to set the required bend of the bottom line of the collar, we set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the stand-up value (2. 5 – 3 cm), and the so-called “back width of the collar” (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up (the values may be different - it depends on the height of the stand and the width of the rise you have chosen). And we try to follow the pattern, draw out the collar!!! The stand can be either cut-off or one-piece (Figure 6).

Shawl cut collar. These collars are very impressive and are not labor intensive compared to jacket ones. The upper collar is cut together with the collar, which greatly simplifies the whole job. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we recommend starting with this model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as in the first model. First, let's set the width of the side to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, based on the model, you need to determine the depth of the cutout and place point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - put point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the collar inflection line (red). Now we measure the length of the back neckline and, using a compass from point a, make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the back neck.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c, tangentially, we plot the amount of the collar’s offset plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the offset width is 6 cm, then the segment cd = 6.8 cm). We put point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, end the line at the neck - we get the bottom cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl's flap perpendicular to the lower edge of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last step is to draw a smooth line for the top cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's figure out what parts we finally got (Figure 8).

Picking. We need to draw an internal hem line to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and end at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. On a separate sheet of paper we transfer the part along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the area where the hem transitions into the back facing (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer hem lines (blue solid and dotted lines) .

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is cut off. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The front is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket collars. Such collars are made of four parts - lower and upper collars and two stand parts. Sometimes the racks are made one-piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below the chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the front. The jacket type collar is a very important element. Such a collar must be made with special care, otherwise the appearance of the entire product will be ruined.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first steps of construction are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a border 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm wide (for a central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the collar inflection line, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left and place point b. We decide on the desired depth of the neckline and draw the bend line of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the back neck - we put point c. Then from point c, tangentially, we plot the width of the collar at the back plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. Connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d we restore the perpendicular to line dа and on it we set aside, first, the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the departure lines of the collar, flap and lapel. To understand these concepts, pay attention to Figure 11.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look in the finished product, let’s draw it on the right side on the front detail (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. The base point of the opening is 3 cm down from the neckline along the inflection line of the collar. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this using tracing paper.

Now all that remains is to draw out the entire stand. We draw the upper cut 0.5 cm below the inflection line, leaving a width of 2 -2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting parts:

Picking. The shawl collar is drawn similarly. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
Collar (lower and upper). Copied completely with stand.
Shelf. We translate everything, just without the collar.

The topic of collars is voluminous, varied and quite complex. So, if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask them at

When creating a new item, most stylists place emphasis on some small details: neckline, sleeve length, cuff width or collar model. Such small details can set a particular style for a piece of clothing and indicate certain character traits of its owner.

Recently, special attention has been paid to collars, which can revive and update even the most boring and out-of-fashion dress. Even if the outfit itself does not require its presence, a collar can be sewn if you have a pattern and small pieces of fabric on hand. Let's learn how to create a pattern yourself and sew a decoration for a dress with a round neckline.

Traditionally they are divided into 3 categories:

According to the shape, a piece of clothing is divided into:

Which collar suits a dress with a round neckline?

For dresses with an open round neckline, a set-in Peter Pan turn-down is best." The main feature of this type is the presence of protruding rounded edges. The edges are wide in front, they narrow only towards the back.

Items decorated with a Peter Pan turn-down collar look very sophisticated. Such dresses are worn by both little girls and schoolgirls, as well as older young ladies.

Making a collar pattern for a dress

The Peter Pan pattern is very easy to make. The whole process, even for the least experienced needlewoman, will not take more than 5 minutes.

Process step by step:

As a basis for the pattern, you will need a pattern of the main parts of the dress.
The measurements that will be required are the sum of the neck lengths of the front and back pieces.
The first point is placed in the upper left corner.
From it to the right, the length of the back neck is set aside with an increase of 1 cm.
From the original point, lay 3 cm down and put a mark. It is connected to the rightmost point of the straight segment.
The width of the product is laid down vertically from the original point.
A smooth bend of the lower part is laid along the formed lines.

The pattern is transferred to the fabric, not forgetting to leave some fabric for the seams.

Advice! If you need the collar to be rigid, a more stable and dense material, for example, non-woven fabric, is hemmed under the main fabric.

How to sew a collar for a dress with your own hands

Once the pattern is ready, you can proceed to sewing the collar. To do this, use the following instructions.

The pattern must be transferred to both the main fabric and the interlining. As a result, you should get 4 parts from non-woven fabric and 4 parts of the product itself.
The parts are glued with non-woven material.
Having placed the parts with their front sides facing each other, they are stitched along the outer bend.
The parts are turned inside out, thoroughly ironed and stitched along the outer curve, retreating approximately 2-3 mm from the edge.
The inner bend line is processed using an overlocker or a zigzag stitch.
On the dress, for which the collar is being prepared, marks are made using small pins.
The collar is attached to the dress along the neckline.
To securely fix the accessory, it is attached along the entire line of the neckline.

A sewn collar can be decorated with lace or braid sewn around the edges. You can attach a large brooch or a small rhinestone in the middle, which will shimmer when exposed to rays of light.

Drap Drap (French drap “cloth”) is a heavy, dense woolen fabric of complex weave made from hardware (cloth) spinning yarn. Like other types of fabrics made from natural raw materials, drape has a glorious history. Its production became possible after the invention of special weaving machines that made it possible to produce material in which the threads are arranged in several rows. To be precise, drape has one and a half or two layers of weave. This made it possible to experiment with weft and warp threads. The simplest option is to put absolutely identical threads on the weft and on the warp, on the outer and on the back layers. The next stage was dictated by everyday logic: replace the yarn of the inner layer with a cheaper or lower quality one. Then some of the woolen threads were replaced with cotton or linen and we got another type of drape. By changing the weave pattern, raw materials, the combination of weft and warp colors, and the finishing of the front side, about a dozen classic varieties of drape were obtained. With the advent of artificial and synthetic fibers, the range of drapes has expanded and acquired new properties. The drape perfectly holds the shape of the product and, due to its thickness and multi-layered nature, remains warm and windproof. Properly dyed drape does not fade, does not fade in the sun and does not lose color in the rain. It practically does not wrinkle, and occasional creases can be straightened with steam. Types and varieties of drape If you use pure wool threads of the best spinning to produce fabric on the outer and inner layers, you will get double-sided drape of the highest quality. It was from this kind of drape that the local tailor made the coat in the famous song. Indeed, a product made from double-sided drape that has been worn out at the seams and bends can be carefully unraveled at the seams and sewn again, on the wrong side. The difference in appearance was insignificant and depended on the method of processing the front side. The drape is considered pure wool if the amount of additives in the yarn does not exceed 15%. By and large, these additives are wool restored by chemical methods. The highest quality drapes fall into this category. But usually lower quality threads are used in the lining layers, with the addition of wool recovered from waste. Therefore, the reverse side of such a drape turns out to be looser. This does not affect the appearance of the drape product, but can significantly reduce its weight and overall density. If the wool content is between 30-85%, the drape is considered half-woolen. As a rule, it is looser and lighter due to the content of nylon, nitron or viscose fibers. At the same time, they try to make the front layer pure wool. To give such a drape a classic look, the pile has to be pressed and combed. Excessive looseness and softness are the most common drawbacks of mixed drapery. However, it also has its uses. In particular, some types are used in the manufacture of windproof suits and workwear. Processing of the front side of the finished drape is carried out in several stages. The fabric is rolled to give additional density. Then it is combed: the pile is given the desired qualities. Depending on the type of drape, its pile can be fluffy, velor, or pressed. After brushing, the weave structure of the fabric becomes almost invisible. Classic types of drape If two or more colors of thread were used in the production of fabric, a melange drape will be obtained. Its weave pattern is extremely varied, since it depends on both the weave and the combination of warp and weft colors. These types of drapes are quite expensive. They are used to make high-quality, timeless outerwear for wealthy men and women. Classic drape is considered to be pure wool fabrics made from wool of a certain quality in compliance with the necessary technologies for weaving and finishing. For example, a bottle drape must contain 80% merino and 20% Tsigai wool (wool from Tsigai sheep), the weave and thickness of the threads are strictly regulated. The pile on the front side should be thick and dense. Velor drape is made from merino wool and does not contain any foreign additives. The pile on the front side lies freely, but should not roll or become frayed. There are other varieties that have long become classics. However, due to the great possibilities in the selection of raw materials, their percentage, the method of production and subsequent processing, new, no less interesting varieties of drapery are constantly appearing. Pictured: Balenciaga coat

Construction of collar patterns- this is a vast topic, the beginning of which I want to start with the simplest collar, namely, a stand-up collar with a side fastening to the top.

This type of collar has become widespread due to its simplicity of construction and classic shape.

Such collars are sewn on almost all types of clothing - from blouses to coats.

According to the principle of constructing a pattern drawing, collars are divided into three groups:

1 - Standing: standing-turn-down and turn-down with the side fastening to the top and open.

2 - Turn-down for products with open sides.

3 - Flat-lying (undercut).

Stand-up collars with side fastening to the top (EMKO method):

2. From point O upward, set aside 1.5 - 10 cm (rise of the middle) and place point B.

4. We connect points A and B with a straight line, in the middle of which (point 1) we build a perpendicular upward, equal to 1 - 2.5 cm (depending on the rise of the OB) - point 2.
The greater the rise, the greater the deflection at point 1.

5. Draw the stitching line in a smooth curve through points B, 2 and A.

6. Rack height.

BB1 (up) = 2 - 3.5 cm

7. Collar width in the middle.

BB2 (up) = 8 - 14 cm

8. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

9. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

10. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. At its middle A6A7 = 1 - 1.5 cm.

11. We draw the departure line with a smooth curve.

The construction of the collar pattern can be slightly modified, depending on its width.

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There is such a separate group of collars as flat-lying. Or they are also called undercut.

They are called that because they are hemmed and follow the line of the neckline, and the flap is shaped according to the model.

The principle of their construction is the same - it depends on the neck.

I will show this below with an example.

The construction of flat collars is carried out using the EMKO method.

To construct the collar, we combine the patterns of the back and front along the shoulder lines so that the top of the back neck (point A2) coincides with the top of the front neck (point A4), and the top points of the armholes P1 and P5 overlap each other by 1 - 1.5 cm.

With a greater approach, we increase the rise of the stand, constructing the collar with closed darts and shoulder lines.

The stitching line of the collar follows the line of the back and front neckline.

The width of the collar at the back and at the ends, the shape of the flap is designed according to the model.

The variety of flat collars is achieved through different neck cuts and the shape of the collar flap.

There is one such collar that looks majestic and beautiful, and is simple to the point of disgrace.

This collar is a one-piece stand-up collar with a bodice and a dart.

You can use it like blouses And dresses, and on jackets And coat.

Especially often such a collar is built on wedding bolero.

This type of stand is built on an extended neck.

Neck extension:

A2-O (right) = A4-C (left) = 0.5 - 1.5 cm.

To build the back, connect point A to point O with a straight line.

From point A and point O to the straight line O-A, we restore perpendiculars upward, on which we plot the height of the stand:

A-O1 = O-O2 = 3 - 4.5 cm.

We connect points O1 and O2 with a smooth line, and smoothly transfer point O2 to the shoulder line.

If the middle of the back is intact, then point O2 is shifted to the right by the amount O1-O11, and the resulting point O21 is smoothly connected to the shoulder line.

We take the excess width of the neck into the dart along the neck. The shape of the dart and its location are determined by the model and body type.

In general, the dart is located in the middle of the distance A-O, its opening is approximately 1 cm, length = two heights of the stand.

When constructing the front stand, we connect point C and point A5 (A6) with a straight line, and from points C and A5 (A6) we restore perpendiculars, on which we plot the height of the stand and get points C1 and C2.

We connect point C1 to point C2 with a smooth line - the upper cut of the front post.

If the front is solid, then we draw its center line vertically, and we design the neckline in the same way as on the back, with C1-C11 = C2-C21.

We take the excess width of the front neck into a dart (we design it in the same way as on the back).

You can make a tuck, or you can do without it.

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In one of the previous posts I talked about collar on a recessed neck in a product with a fastener .

In the same post I want to talk about building a similar collar, but without a front fastener.

This collar differs from the previous one in that it contains no stand- it lies flat on the back.

Although... you can modify this pattern and add a stand along the back - this is also possible.

But that’s not about that now.

Construction of a collar on a recessed neckline in a product without a fastener (according to the EMKO method):

1. From point A5 downwards we set aside the size of the neck recess A5-L - according to the model.

2. Connect point A4 with point L.

3. From point A4 upwards, along the continuation of the straight line L-A4, set aside the length of the back neck - place point B.

4. From point A4, with a radius equal to:
R = A4-B to the right we draw an arc on which we set aside the height of the stand B-B1 = 2 - 2.5 cm.

We connect point B1 with point A4, and restore the perpendicular from point B1 to the left.
We set aside the width of the collar at the back B1-B2, which is equal to twice the height of the stand (which is 1 - 1.5 cm), which means:

B1B2 = 2 * stand height + (1 - 1.5 cm) = 5 - 6.5 cm

5. We lengthen the collar along the flight.
B2-B3 = 1 cm
We connect point B3 with point B1 and continue this line 0.5 cm to the right - put point B4.

6. Draw a line for sewing the collar into the neckline:

a) Connect point A4 to point B4 with a smooth line.
b) Divide the segment V-L in half - put point B5.
c) To the left of point B5 we restore a perpendicular along which we lay a segment equal to B5-B6 = 1.5 cm
d) Through points B4, A4, B6, L we draw a line for sewing the collar into the neck.

7. We design the departure line according to the model.

You can get such a cute little collar:

There is such a wonderful collar like turn-down collar with recessed neck with clasp.

This is what we will talk about in today’s post.

What's good about him?

Yes, it’s not noticeable in anything special, it’s just that there’s this collar, and I’d like to tell you a little about it.

You can’t see him as often as, for example, english collar, but not that rare either.

The collar looks better on thick fabric.

It stands up a little at the back, but is flat towards the front.

These collars look great on blouses and dresses.

Construction of a turn-down collar on a recessed neck with a fastener (according to the EMKO method):

1. Lower the neck A5-A6 = 10 - 13 cm.

2. Connect point A6 to point A4 with a straight line.

3. Divide the segment A4-A6 in half, the division point is a.

4. Deflection in the middle of the segment A4-A6 to the right and left by 1.5 cm.

a-a1 (left) = 1.5 cm
a-a2 (right) = 1.5 cm

5. We continue the line A6-a1-A4 upward and set aside the length of the back neckline from point A4, and place point Z1.

6. From point A4 draw an arc to the left, with a radius equal to:
R = A4-Z1

7. We set aside 3.5 - 5 cm in an arc to the left, and put point Z2.

8. We draw the stitching line through points Z2, A4, a2, A6.

9. Z2-Z4 - collar width according to the model.

10. We design the departure line and ends of the collar according to the model.

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Below is pattern of a stand-up collar for products with a combined fastener to the top and open to the style.

These collars are most widespread in shirt-style blouses and dresses.

What makes it special?

And the peculiarity is that, unlike turn-down collar patterns with a slight rise, this collar has a kind of one-piece stand-up and looks good both when buttoned and when unbuttoned.

The pattern of a stand-up collar is constructed as follows:

1. Construct an angle at point O.

2. From point O upward, we lay off a segment equal to 2 cm and place point B.

3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 3 - 3.5 cm (height of the stand), and
put point B1.

4. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 8 - 10 cm (collar width), and place point B2.

5. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R = BA = neck length - (minus) 0.05*OB

7. From point A upward we set aside a distance equal to OB2.

8. Distance A3A4 - according to the model.

9. The collar stitching line touches the line OA at point (A1), located at a distance of 1/3 of the segment OA, from point A to the left.

We trace the collar along the control points.

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Below is described constructing a turn-down collar pattern with a slight rise in the middle.

It is built almost the same way as this collar.

And they are very similar in appearance.

There is only one small distinguishing feature - they have different stand rises.

Such a collar is sewn on in the same way as that one on almost any type of clothing. Only now, probably, in a coat less often.

The construction of a turn-down collar (EMKO method) looks like this:

We design the stitching line with a slight convexity towards the ends of the collar.

1. Draw a right angle with its vertex at point O.

2. From point O, set aside 2 cm upward (rise of the middle) and place point B.

3. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R = BA = neck length - (minus) 0.05*OB

4. Connect points A and B with a straight line.
We divide this line into three equal parts: AA1 = BB = AB/3

5. Aa = AA1/2

6. From points (c) and (a) we draw perpendiculars.
From point a downwards along the perpendicular we lay off 0.2 - 0.3 cm.
From point b upward along the perpendicular we set aside 0.4 - 0.5 cm.

7. Rack height.

BB1 (up) = 2 - 3.5 cm

8. Collar width in the middle.

BB2 (up) = 8 - 14 cm

9. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

10. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

11. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. At its middle A6A7 = 0.5 cm.

12. We draw the stitching line in a smooth curve through points B, b1, A1, a1 and A.

And the turn-down collar pattern looks like this:

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I was organizing the folders on my computer and found these interesting collars.

There are a lot of them here, and perhaps even small, but maybe they will be useful to someone.

As you know, fashion is cyclical, and if these collars are not in fashion today, this does not mean that they will not be in demand in 5-10 years.

What I mean is that there is no need to write that they are too old-fashioned - everything comes back in fashion!1. Collar with a detachable stand for a men's shirt .

Below is a pattern of perhaps the most common collar - shirt collar.

And it’s not even so important whether a woman’s shirt or a men’s shirt is the same – the construction is the same.

According to different methods, of course, it differs, but this construction (EMCO method) is quite successful (although there are some angularities and shortcomings).

The shirt collar pattern consists of the collar itself and the stand.

Constructing a collar pattern:

1. Construct an angle at point O.

2. From point O upward, we lay a segment equal to 7 - 8 cm, and place point B.

3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 6 - 8 cm (collar width), and place point B2.

4. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R = BA = neck length - (minus) 0.05*OB

5. We connect points A and B with a straight line, in the middle of which (point c) we build a perpendicular up and down, along which we put 1.5 cm in both directions, and put points at b1 and b2.

6. At point B we build a right angle.
BB1 = AA2 = 3 - 4 cm.

Draw the bottom of the rack parallel to the top. We complete the ledge equal to the width of the half-skid. The corner can be rounded or left as an angle - according to the model.

The width of the collar at the front and the design of the ends according to the model.

7. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

8. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

9. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. At its middle A6A7 = 1 - 1.5 cm.

10. We draw the departure line with a smooth curve.

Happy building and sewing!

It consists of two parts - the stand and the collar itself.

In general, this is the advice to everyone: if you want to cut out a collar, and you don’t know how to do it, which collar is best, and you don’t want to cut the fabric, then it’s best to cut the collar you like from fake fabric (fabric that you don’t mind cutting, it’s better to choose the most suitable in texture), and figure out how you like its shape and how it lies.

In this case, you will not spoil the fabric, and you will be able to evaluate the collar

Quite often you can see shawl collar in clothes.

Such a collar is in demand in blouses, dresses, and even coats, although, probably, most often such a collar can be seen in a robe.

The shawl collar looks very dignified and can be made from almost any fabric.

Pattern it is also not complicated and can be built very quickly.

Constructing a shawl collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside a distance equal to A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.

2. Connect points B and L, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.

3. From point A4, on the continuation of line A3-A4 to the left, set aside a value equal to the length of the back neckline and place point O.

4. From point O we lift up a perpendicular to the line A4-O, along which we set aside the amount of rise in the middle of the collar = 4 cm - for stooped figures, 6 cm - for kinked figures, and we get point B3.

5. Connect points B3 and A4.

6. From point B3, perpendicular to B3-A4, draw a line to the middle of the collar.

7. Rack height:
B3-B2 = A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.

8. We set aside the width of the departure according to the model, but not less than B3-B2 + (3 - 4 cm), and we get point B4.

9. We draw up the departure line according to the model.

Shawl collar in clothes:

is presented below and is not anything complicated or scary.

So you don’t need to be so afraid, you can just read it carefully and everything will become clear.

Where can we see an apache collar?

Most often these are blouses and dressing gowns.

But such a collar can often be seen on a wedding bolero.

So, if you decide to sew a wedding bolero, then take note of this collar.

He classical and looks appropriate on many models.

This is, so to speak, a classic that never goes out of style.

Apache collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside the height of the stand A4-B = 3 cm.

2. Connect points L and B, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.

3. We continue the L-B line up and put it from point B to the length of the back neck - put point B1.

4. From point F we draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to F-B1, along the arc to the left we lay off a segment B1-B2 = 5 cm.

5. Connect point B to point B2 with a straight line and, perpendicular to it from point B2, draw a line from the middle of the collar up and down.

6. From point B2 to the left on the line of the middle of the collar we lay off a segment:
B2-B3 = A4-B = 3 cm, and to the right B2-B4 = the width of the departure according to the model.

7. Position of the front end of the collar.
Point C - according to the model.

8. We draw the departure line and the edge of the collar to the inflection line L-B according to the model.

9. We draw the line for sewing the collar into the neck through point B3 tangentially to the neck, with A4-A41 = 0.5 - 0.8 cm.

This apache collar pattern may vary slightly, depending on the height of the stand.

You can make a turn-down stand:

Or you can make it so that the collar stands at the back, and only its ends are bent:

And you can even do something in between the two options described above:

There is a whole group of collars called "fantasy".

Fancy collars are obtained by spreading out the flap of a flat-lying collar of any shape.

These include a collar, which will be discussed below - this is a “mould” collar.

It is usually built on recessed neck.

I will give the construction using the EMKO method.

It is best to make a mold collar from silk fabrics, because... they will flow and lie very beautifully.

Its construction and pattern is very simple.

A2-B1 = 10 cm

A5-O = 9 cm or more

From the drawing we translate the collar pattern, draw cut lines on it, divide the pattern into 8 parts, along which we cut the pattern from the flyaway side and spread it apart.

The amount of expansion depends on the thickness and structure of the fabric, and can range from 10 to 20 cm.

We draw the departure line with a smooth line so that the collar fits nicely into the folds; it should be cut along the bias thread towards the middle of the collar, i.e. to the line A-B at an angle of 45 degrees.

Most often, such collars can be seen on blouses made in a romantic style, but you can also find coats with such collars:

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Women's collars can be of completely different shapes and contents.

For different types of clothing and for different fabrics. For each you can find a collar, as they say, “your own.”

Somehow earlier I wrote about collar collar. The pattern of which was a simple rectangle.

This was the simplest collar.

Not long ago I found so many women’s cowl collars that my eyes lit up!

So many ideas! So many models!

These collars are more suitable for soft, easily draped fabrics. Preferably not very wrinkled, but better yet, not wrinkled at all.

They will look great on knitwear.

These models are truly feminine collars, endowed with grace and charm.

This is just a godsend in some sense of the word.

Before, I didn’t know what to come up with with knitwear. I didn't know what kind of collar to make.
I'm tired of the same type, but this just saves me.

After all, by sewing on different collars, the clothing models will look completely different.

That is, using one base (say, for a badlon, for example), you can make many different models. I used to have a problem - all the badlons had regular stands.

I'm tired of it already.

Now there is something to create and somewhere to roam

Still, women’s collars are not men’s, there are so many of them

And these are just clamps!

If anyone has the same problem as me, then you can also solve it like I did.

There is one such wonderful collar - a “collar” or, as it is also called a “collar”.

This collar looks quite impressive.

We also need to say a little about fabrics!

In such a collar, what kind of fabric is used is very important.

Fabrics should (preferably) be wrinkle-resistant and easily draped so that they lay beautifully and do not cling.

Perhaps this is such a feature of this collar, and you need to pay special attention to it.

Construction of the cowl collar pattern:

1. Cut out the shape of a rectangle.

2. Place the stitching line into the neckline at an angle of 45 degrees to the warp threads, while expanding the neckline according to the model.

3. Stand height OB = AA1 = 4.5 cm or more.

4. OA = neck length

The depth of the neck for this stand can be increased, and accordingly, the length of the collar too.

Cowl collar pattern:

This stand is used mainly in light clothing: blouses, dresses, badlons, etc.

Here are just a few examples:

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Today I want to talk about pattern of a narrow one-piece stand and its pattern.

First, about what kind of collar this is and whether it is a collar.

The stand is one-piece, without darts, and therefore it is cut narrow.

This is a kind of collar, although it is narrow.

It is found very rarely, but there are such models.

I don't really like him.

There is another one-piece stand, but it has darts and is wider.

Constructing a pattern for a one-piece stand:

A narrow one-piece stand with a bodice up to 4.5 cm high is built on the drawing of the back neck and shelf.

On the back:

1. From point A up, set aside a distance equal to the height of the stand = 3 cm, and place point 2.

2. From point A2 up and to the left we draw an arc with a radius of 3 cm.

3. Through point A2, draw a vertical upward until it intersects with the resulting arc - we get point A7.

4. Along an arc to the left of point A7, set aside a distance equal to 1 - 1.5 cm and place point 1.

5. Connect points 1 and 2 with a smooth line, and point A7 with the shoulder section of the back.

On the front:

1. We continue the line of the shoulder cut to the right, and at its continuation we put aside
A4a21 = 3 cm.

2. From point A4 with a radius equal to 3 cm, draw an arc upward and from point a21 we set aside 1 - 1.5 cm - we get point a22.

3. Connect point a22 with a smooth line to point A4.

4. From point A6 up, draw a vertical line along which we set aside 3 cm - we get point a23.

5. Connect points a23 and a22 with a smooth line.

Pattern of a one-piece stand-up collar with a bodice:

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Miracle collar funnel shaped stand presented below in all its glory!

What kind of collar is this and where is it used?

This is a very beautiful collar, but it is very impractical, and due to its impracticality it can be found in few places.

Basically, these are some kind of carnival costumes or simply products intended for special occasions.

Its peculiarity is that this collar is very different from all its brothers.

Differs in shape.

But it exists, and even sometimes appears, so why not make a pattern for it?

Construction of a stand-up collar of the “funnel” type:

1. Construct a right angle with the center at point O.

2. From point O up, set aside a distance equal to 2 - 4 cm (more is possible - according to the model), and place point B.

3. From point B up, we set aside the height of the stand = 3 - 4 cm, and we get point B1.

4. From point B, with a radius equal to the length of the neck (approximately 21 cm), we make a notch on straight line O - we get point A.

5. Connect points B and A with a straight line. Divide this segment in half and put point 1.