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The history of makeup in the first half of the 20th century

What or who determines fashion trends in makeup? Designers, makeup artists? Often these are events or people with little or no connection with the fashion world. If you want to know how the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb, the growing popularity of Hollywood films and two world wars influenced the make-up of the first half of the 20th century, then go with us to the past!

1900-1910s - modesty in everything

At the beginning of the twentieth century, aristocratic pallor was still in vogue. Therefore, ladies from noble classes tried to spend less time in the sun, carefully looked after their skin, trying to keep it soft, smooth and snow-white. Excessive makeup was considered bad form, the lot of actresses or women of easy virtue. And all that fashionistas could afford at that time was a few jars of blush for cheeks, eyelids and lips, as well as lemon juice and powder to give the skin the desired whiteness.

Characteristic female images in the first decades of the twentieth century

The peculiarity of the make-up of the beginning of the last century is that it was necessary to paint in such a way that it was imperceptible. The 19th-century fascination with natural beauty continued to dominate.
To create a foundation on the face, first, a little moisturizer, powder, blush and powder were applied.
To emphasize the eyes, it was necessary to apply a little paste of gray, brown or lemon shade on the eyelids in a thin layer.
Lips were allowed to be painted only in soft colors. Most likely, you know one of the women's tricks: when lipstick is not at hand, and the lips need to be made brighter, then they should be bitten a little so that the blood rushes to the tissues. So, the shade of the lips of a decent woman at the beginning of that century could not be richer than this pink shade.

With the release of Hollywood films, the attitude towards makeup has changed significantly. Even advertisements for new cosmetics first appeared in film magazines (“Photoplay”) and only then in women's publications. Take, for example, the story of Max Factor, the founder of a huge cosmetics company. After the release of the film "Cleopatra" in 1917 with actress Theda Bara in the title role, his business became famous throughout the country, because it was Max who was her makeup artist. What was the cost of the new image of the heroine with eyes richly lined with kayal. And already in 1914, the Max Factor brand presented its first exclusive shadows from henna extracts.

Actress Theda Bara in real life and as Cleopatra

Competitors did not lag behind, around the same time Maybelline released the first bar mascara. Recall that the company owes its name to the name of the younger sister of its founder Tom Williams - Mabel. Once he noticed that she was painting her eyelashes with a mixture of petroleum jelly and coal dust. This inspired him to create a special kind of mascara based on sodium stearate.

Bar Mascara by Maybelline

Until now, historians are arguing about when lipstick in tubes appeared. According to one version, Maurice Levy invented this kind of packaging in 1915, but there is no clear evidence for this. According to another, the inventor could be William Kendell, who made metal packaging for the Mary Garden trademark, but this is not known for certain.
In any case, until the First World War, lipstick was available in small tubes or in the form of sticks wrapped in paper. There was only one shade - carmine, which was obtained from cochineal - a special type of insect. Soon the trademarks Max Factor, Helena Rubinstein, Elizabeth Arden and Coty began to produce their own varieties of this cosmetic product, diversifying its color scheme with special, secret ingredients. Until the early 1920s, such lipstick was not entirely in demand.

1920s - makeup comes into fashion

After the First World War, the stiffness of the beginning of the century was replaced by a thirst for a rich and sparkling life. This decade even acquired its own name, the Roaring Twenties, due to its dynamic change in social order. Oddly enough, bright makeup helped the representatives of the beautiful half of humanity to cope with the difficulties of the post-war period. Therefore, almost every American or European woman of that time could find lipstick, eye shadow, mascara and foundation pencils from Maybelline and Max Factor in her purse. In Japan, the Shiseido brand created the image of the “modern Japanese woman” with its unique products.

Bow lips and surprisingly thin eyebrows are the main trends in makeup in the 1920s.

Bright makeup has ceased to be something shameful, and women were able to openly buy decorative cosmetics - departments with it appeared in almost all department stores and pharmacies.
And again, it is impossible to do without Hollywood. The image of the film star Clara Bow has become legendary: expressive dark eyes and lips with a bow. After that, women began to pay special attention to the shape of the lips. The pallor of the skin was still in fashion, but a healthy youthful blush on the ivory face was highly welcomed.

What kind of makeup did the women of the 1920s prefer?

Eyes - a variety of eye shadow and always with kajal eyeliner. The latter gained such popularity after they found the tomb of Pharaoh Tutankhamen. The exoticism of Egyptian images was simply mesmerizing.
For the first time, women began to pluck their eyebrows, and then draw them, changing direction, a little closer to the temples.
The most popular were lips with a bow. The girl was supposed to have a small and neat mouth, so lipstick was applied without reaching the line of the natural contour of the lips.
Eyelashes - mascara has become a relatively new cosmetic product, so no fashionista could resist it.
If earlier blush was applied not in the form of a triangle, as it was before, but in circles, which made the lines of the face smoother.
Nail polish became in demand, and in this regard, Revlon was unrivaled. Surprisingly fashionable was considered "moon manicure", when the tip of the nail was painted with a different color.

If you liked 1920s makeup, then this modern master class is also worth your attention.

The image of a girl of the 1920s is considered the most feminine. For the first time, the fair sex was thinking about how makeup can change almost any look. Not surprisingly, bookstores have been hit with a plethora of cosmetics publications and guides on how to properly apply makeup.

1930s - there is no limit to perfection

The next decade of the 20th century brought several changes to makeup. Once again, Hollywood was to blame.
Very thin curving eyebrows have become fashionable. Just look at the photos of the most sought-after actresses of the time - Greta Garbo, Jean Harlow or Constance Bennett. Some women have gone to extreme lengths and completely shaved off their eyebrows in order to redraw them every morning, achieving the perfect effect. But still, a more prudent solution was to pluck out the extra hairs.

Mind-blowing Constance Bennett, Greta Garbo and Jean Harlow

As for the eyes, eyeliner and dark shadows give way to lighter shades. Creamy eye shadow began to appear, for example, from Max Factor, which also introduced lip gloss to the market, and in 1937 - special cosmetics that were washed off with plain water. But in 1939, the Helena Rubinstein brand pleased its customers with the first waterproof mascara. This tool was in every cosmetic bag, however, do not forget that liquid mascara has not yet been invented, so women had to be content with its solid version.

In just ten years, lipstick sales have become incredible. Just think, according to one study, for every lipstick sold in 1921, there were 1,500 in 1931.

1930s makeup features:

The eye shadow palette has expanded. There were blue, pink, green and lilac shades. In this case, the shadows were not superimposed on the eyelids, going beyond the natural area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe eye.

Eyebrows were either carefully plucked or shaved according to the principle, the thinner the better. Often they were simply drawn with a special pencil.

Bowknot lips are out of fashion. Instead, women tried to visually enlarge the upper lip. The most popular lipstick colors are dark red, almost burgundy, and raspberry.

Instead of circular movements, blush began to be applied in the form of a triangle, which made it possible to give the face completely new features.

Mascara has become an indispensable attribute of every beauty, because expressive eyes never go out of fashion.

As for nails, the "moon manicure" is still in demand, but for the first time there was a rule - the shade of lipstick and the color of varnish must match.
It is noteworthy that in the 1930s, the first videos teaching the art of makeup appeared. They were relatively short, but quite descriptive and useful. Here, for example, is one of them, taken back in 1936.

1940s - beauty should inspire deeds

In this decade of the last century, the production of decorative cosmetics reached an industrial level. Even the events of the Second World War did not interfere with its development.
Another fashionable image of a woman is being formed: the same high hairstyle, curved eyebrows, lips and red manicure. At the same time, full and juicy lips become popular. To do this, women of fashion were advised to use a cosmetic pencil to apply the contour of the lips outside the natural lines of the mouth, due to which their volume visually increased. In addition, if lipsticks used to be exclusively matte, then in the 1940s they began to add petroleum jelly to them, giving shine and gloss. Due to the hostilities, women experienced a shortage of rouge, but still adapted to use regular lipstick instead.

Red nails and lips are a hallmark of every fashionista of the 1940s.

It would not be superfluous to say that for women to have beautiful makeup at that time was considered almost a public duty. At the same time, it was allowed to paint from adolescence, and this was simply unthinkable 15-20 years ago. What is the point? Yes, just beautiful and bright female faces were supposed to maintain the morale of the soldiers fighting at the front.

What was the makeup of the 1940s?

The foundation should be a little darker than the usual complexion, but the powder does not go out of style.
The best colors for the eyes are shades of light brown and beige.
Eyebrows should be well-groomed and slightly thicker than in the 1930s, shaving them off was out of the question. In addition, Vaseline was used to give the eyebrows the desired shape.
The lipstick was dominated by red and red-orange shades.
Eyelashes continued to be painted with the same Maybelline bar mascara.
The crescent-shaped manicure continued to be considered the most fashionable, but from practical images (women had to work in factories and factories), the tips of the nail were not covered with varnish so that it would not peel off.
Blush was used pink and superimposed on the upper points of the cheekbones.
Here is one of the educational films of the time, which describes the basic makeup techniques of the 1940s.

1950s - the beginning of the golden age of makeup

The middle of the twentieth century is the heyday of the recognized beauties of all time - Elizabeth Taylor, Natalie Wood, Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn. Skin care products are becoming incredibly popular, lipstick is appearing that leaves no marks, pink shades and pastels are replacing the fierce red color. The most sought-after eye shadows have become, providing a shimmering effect, and there is no need to even talk about the diversity of their palette. The Revlon brand has gone the furthest by offering fashionable eyeshadow sets for the first time.

Real style icons - Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe

The main differences in makeup in the 1950s

For the base, they took a skin-colored or ivory-colored foundation. and Powder had to be in the same tones.
Applying eye shadow in a thin layer, gently spreading up to the eyebrows.
As for the eyes, a little mascara was applied mainly to the upper lashes.
They preferred blush pastel or pink tones, they were applied to the upper part of the cheekbones.
Pink lipstick has become quite popular. The lips had to be bright, but not defiant, voluminous, but not too much.
And finally, a little more video about vintage makeup, this time from the 1950s.

The history of makeup has more than one hundred years, but it was the last century that became significant. The first half of the 20th century was a real boom in decorative cosmetics, which over the course of several decades radically changed the image of a woman.

Read also:

Are you just getting started with eye makeup?

To take the first steps with confidence, study our guide to the main types and techniques - it will help you choose what is right for you!

All types and techniques of makeup are usually divided into daytime and evening; a separate category is art make-up for the podium, which demonstrates unusual beauty solutions of makeup artists and is only suitable for social events. It is hardly compatible with ordinary life.

Choose the type of makeup that suits you, depending on the occasion that requires you to create an image.

And also pay attention to how this or that technique is “compatible” with your appearance features - in particular, the shape of the eyes. For example, cut crease is ideal for the impending eyelid, and "banana" should be chosen by those who need to slightly "stretch" their eyes.

After studying the theory, start practicing: master those that will help draw attention to your merits.

MAKEUP WITHOUT MAKEUP

Those who need to slightly emphasize the eyes need knowledge of the principles of nude makeup. It should be invisible, as if cosmetics were not used at all. Therefore, shades of soft, natural colors should be used (matte beige or a shade of champagne with a slight shimmer is what you need), as well as mascara - brown, not black.

SMOKY ICE

One option for a more expressive result is smoky makeup, or smoky eyes.

It can be different: sometimes, to create a smoky effect, dark shadows of one shade are shaded over the surface of the eyelid, sometimes two or three shades are used to create a transition from light (at the inner corners of the eyes) to dark (at the outer ones).

Due to this, the make-up turns out to be more voluminous, “embossed”, adds more depth to the look.

WITH ARROWS

Ideal graphic arrows or soft, with a slight shading? Everyone chooses according to the features of their appearance, according to their style. But to master the drawing of even the simplest arrows, you need time and patience - the first time you draw a straight line and a neat sharp “tail” is hardly possible.

CAT-EYE

Cat eye makeup involves a combination of smokey ice and sharp graphic arrows. They are performed in such a way as to slightly stretch the eyes, "raising" the outer corners of the eyes - this is how the attractive effect of a cat's look is obtained.

CUT CREASE

A special cut crease technique is the accentuation of the crease of the eyelid: a dark shade of shadows is “laid” into it, and then it is shaded, creating a light haze.

It turns out a particularly expressive version of smokey ice makeup, which, by the way, is especially useful for those who have the problem of an impending century - it is the darkening of the fold that helps to hide the very “overhanging”.

"BANANA"

This code name is one of the main techniques for applying shadows. You will need three shades: light, dark and intermediate - one with which you can create a transition between the first two.

A dark shade not only creates an emphasis on the outer corners of the eyes, but also separates the moving eyelid from the fixed one.

As a result, the lines outline the eyes in such a way that their shape takes on the elongation of a banana - hence the name of the technique.

"THE LOOP"

Another classic make-up technique is the “loop”. Using it, they draw a line along the ciliary contour and instead of leading it beyond the outer corner of the eye and getting a pointed arrow, it is rounded towards the crease of the eyelid - a loop is obtained, which, after shading, helps to give expressiveness to the eyes.

RELIEF TECHNIQUE

This technique is one of the most versatile. Firstly, it helps to emphasize any shape of the eyes, and secondly, it is very easy to master - you do not need long workouts to get the perfect result after the first experiments with this type of make-up.

This is the creation of haze with the help of layered shadows. The effect of volume gives the use of several shades of shadows and an emphasis on both the crease of the eyelid and the outer corners of the eyes.

Unlike the "banana" and "loop", the relief technique is aimed at obtaining a more natural result with soft transitions from one shade to another.

Introduction

Makeup in the modern sense is the art of decorating the face with the help of decorative cosmetics.

The use of cosmetics helps to improve the complexion, correct not only minor skin imperfections, but also emphasize the dignity.

In order for makeup to look spectacular, it must be done taking into account an individual approach, a sense of proportion and taste.

When applying makeup, it is very important to observe the measure. Even the most expensive and high-quality cosmetics will look bad if applied too thickly.

Obeying fashion trends, you should never forget about the individual characteristics of not only the face, but also the character. What looks spectacular on a model may not always suit her. For makeup, a wide range of decorative cosmetics is usually used. The most common of these are foundation, powder, eye shadow, blush, mascara and lipstick.

When applying makeup, a number of special tools are usually used: combs, combs, brushes, shadings, applicators, etc.

It is known that makeup makes the face brighter and more expressive. It can be everyday, business, festive and, of course, wedding. When choosing the type of makeup, you need to remember one thing: whatever it is, the main thing is that it looks natural and emphasizes beauty.

Goal: To develop an evening make-up with an emphasis on the eyes and lips - Achieved.

1. Analysis of the literature on make-up.

2. Performing evening make-up with an emphasis on the eyes and lips.

Theoretical part (creative part)

The history of makeup

Fashion and beauty, like everything in this world, have their own history and development trends. And if our contemporaries still remember the laws of makeup and haircut rules of the 90s of the 20th century, then the carefree eighties are already lost in the haze of the past. What can we say about the traditions of earlier eras. Meanwhile, these traditions were very diverse, interesting and sometimes even life-threatening.

People want to make themselves more beautiful and graceful than they really are, for not only a few observable past centuries, but for many millennia. It is in this depth of time that the history of cosmetics goes.

The ancient Greeks turned the creation of hairstyles into a real art, drawing them with gold and silver stripes.

The Greeks also invented such a popular make-up tool as white powder. Only then and many centuries later, the powder was made on the basis of such a monstrously harmful component as lead. Lead white powder was applied in a very thick layer, which gave the faces a languid and alluring look, while hiding the effects of various skin diseases and problems. This was irreparably dangerous, since the lead, for a certain period of time, only aggravated the destruction of tissue caused by ailments. But, in spite of everything, the nobility continued to use this remedy until the 19th century. Since pallor was held in high esteem, Greek women tried to use minimal makeup to look as natural and dim as possible. Lipsticks are known as: a paste of clay, red iron oxide and ocher or olive oil plus beeswax. The following mixture was popular as shadows: olive oil mixed with earth or coal. In addition, Greek women liked to connect their eyebrows in one line; coal powder was also used for this.

The ancient Romans often resorted to the use of strong bleaches and hair dyes, so both men and women turned out to be bald by a certain age. Secular ladies were forced to wear wigs if such a misfortune happened. In addition, the Roman matrons stubbornly killed their own skin, covering their face, neck, shoulders and hands with the same white lead powder.

Makeup of the 30s is the time of the formation of makeup. Many cosmetics of that time were very different from their modern counterparts. For example, today it is difficult to imagine the lipstick in a jar used by women in the 19th century. The modern metal-tube lipstick that women use today originated in America in 1915. Any make-up of the early 30s really looked too defiant, and its composition was very harmful to the skin.

The 40s of the twentieth century are a difficult, difficult time. These are the war years, which subjected a huge number of people to cruel physical and psycho-emotional torture. This and the post-war years are the time of the revival of the destroyed and dynamic growth of the economy. But, despite all the difficulties of life, women still strived for beauty and perfection. True, the fashion of the forties turned out to be very economical. And the hallmarks of that time were large curls, a soft feminine look, a rounded face and small hats. Make-up was performed in two versions: natural - for every day, and expressive bright - for an evening out.

In the late 50s, everyone liked sensuality and femininity. Marilyn Monroe was considered the standard of beauty, with her short curled bleached hair and lips covered with that same bright red shiny lipstick.

In the late 60s, the lips of women faded and turned into an insignificant detail against the background of exaggeratedly large eyes. Black mascara, often applied in three coats to define the lashes and contour the eyelids, was backed up with bright shadows and long false lashes, with the lower lashes often drawn in ink directly onto the skin. In order not to distract the eye from such a spectacle, the lips were painted in the most faded, pastel pink tones. The boyish features that were fashionable in the late sixties were embodied in the image of the fashion model Twiggy, with her short hair and pale lips. In the seventies, the hippie movement breathed life into a new direction and many women gave up makeup altogether and stopped caring for their hair. But this trend quickly faded. And in the history of fashion there were elegant haircuts of the late seventies, suggesting neat lines and excellent hair condition.

The 1980s saw a resurgence in demand for natural beauty products. Lanolin, oatmeal, herbs, fruits have become an integral part of skin and hair care products. There are many innovations for hair styling and new trends in makeup. Whatever age is in the yard, external attractiveness always remains one of the most desirable qualities. A modern woman has a huge selection of cosmetic, perfumery and medicinal products for skin and hair. Moreover, now the beauty industry uses not only the achievements of modern chemistry and plastic surgery, but also developments related to high technologies.

Makeup of the 90s is characterized by the transformation of colors and textures. The history of make-up describes this period as a time of real transformations, not only in the color scheme, but also in the textures of cosmetics. First of all, this time was marked by the appearance of bright pink and crimson tones in makeup, the fashion for plum lipstick and the appearance of lip gloss. Mascara has become better quality and more varied in color. Bright shades of mascara have come into fashion. Black lipstick did not last long on the catwalks, which became popular thanks to the singer Linda. In general, the make-up of the 90s can be called bright, bold and puppet at the same time, as many women of that time imitated the image of a Barbie doll or heroines from Mexican TV shows.

The French like to say:
"To be beautiful, you must be born beautiful,
and to seem beautiful - you have to suffer."

Throughout the centuries, man has tried to become more beautiful with the help of cosmetics, and this was for him the most important and debilitating concern. With the development of human society, cosmetics constantly changed under the influence of objective and subjective reasons, and aesthetic ideals also changed with the change of eras. What at one time was considered beautiful, at another was primitive, and sometimes even ugly.

The art of decorating oneself is rooted in the distant past:

1) Prehistoric era.
The origins of aesthetics date back to the prehistoric era, this can be judged by household items that have survived to this day, works of art, objects of material culture. They helped to find out what people who lived in past eras looked like. Even then, the desire to look attractive was great. The ideal of female beauty was a symbol - the ability to bear children. In the caves of the ice age, archaeologists have found: lipstick pencils, sticks for coloring eyes and eyebrows, tattoo rods, sharp shells for pricking a pattern on the face and body. During festivities, the birth of a child, harvesting, religious ritual ceremonies and rituals, military campaigns, primitive people painted their bodies and faces with primitive dyes: colored clays and crayons, charcoal, herb and leaf sap. Animal fat was rubbed on the body, protecting the skin from cold and heat.

2) Ancient Egypt.
A number of archaeological and ethnographic monuments testify that in Egypt cosmetics were already known for 2000 years before our era. Ancient Egypt was not only a caste, but also an aesthetically perfect state. Decorative cosmetics were available only for queens and pharaohs, as well as for their embalming. The pharaohs who ruled in Egypt chose as their wives not only noble, but also beautiful queens who adored makeup. Frescoes and painted limestone sculptures, as well as wooden sarcophagi brought to our time the images of ancient Egyptian beauties such as Queen Nefertiti and Queen Cleopatra, it was they who managed to achieve the greatest beauty and amaze us with the magnificence of makeup. So, for example, Queen Cleopatra wrote a book about cosmetics "On Medicines for the Face", and almost 1000 years ago the scientist Ibn Sina (Avicenna) wrote the book "Canon of Medicine", in which he paid serious attention to cosmetics and developed more than 500 recipes. , among them drugs used for cosmetic purposes (to eliminate diseases of the skin, muscles).

At the end of the 80s, the teachings of the Institute of Applied Technology of the National Council for Scientific Research of Italy restored about 200 recipes for cosmetics, some of them can be used now, because the components are not outdated, and the remains of Queen Cleopatra's Perfume Factory were also discovered. Among the finds are hand millstones for grinding herbs and plants, cosmetic utensils: cauldrons, pots for boiling and boiling compounds and infusions (some of them still store the remains of ointments), spoons and spatulas, mortars and pestles for measuring, mixing, grinding colored powders, ornamented cases for coloring sticks, amphoras, perfume bottles, as well as jeweled perfume jugs, metal mirrors, and even hairdressing tools made of rare woods and semi-precious stones - combs and curling irons, knives for shaving, combs, curlers.

There were also "Institutes of Beauty" in Egypt, masseuses, dealers in makeup (bottles from which, as well as boxes of blush, are now stored in many museums around the world), the Egyptians brought the application of ointments to the body to high art, including medical. The basis of all kinds of poultices, rubbing, balms, ointments, mineral dyes, incense were: resins, grated malachite, antimony sulfide, terracotta, plants, semi-precious and precious stones, ivory, bones and entrails of various animals, as well as for nutrition, disinfection of the skin and to protect it from the sun, ox and sheep fat, olive, sesame, and castor oils were used. To gain soft, smooth skin without wrinkles, the Egyptians used a cream based on grated chalk. And bad breath was fought with sucking sweets made from myrrh marshmallow, juniper berries, raisins, ram's horn glue and frankincense. Three surviving Egyptian papyri mention a recipe for "transforming an old man into a youth of twenty" by eliminating and masking the unfavorable signs of age, and give the composition of ointments recommended for "giving joints greater flexibility." Great importance was attached to personal hygiene, for example, Cleopatra used baths made from donkey milk that softens the skin. Cosmetics had healing and decorative properties. They were used by all segments of the population, and shamans, healers, priests were engaged in the art of making. The Egyptians turned the process of applying cosmetics into a ritual. They followed the requirements of the then fashion, resorted to artificial changes in shape: widened the lips, lengthened the ears, etc. The Egyptians knew the secrets of preparing bright, illuminated, luminous paints, which were obtained from shells or sea mollusks. Recipes for the preparation of powders that give the skin a haze and hide the natural defects and imperfections of the skin were kept in deep secrecy. The Egyptians dyed their eyes with black powders "cosmetics", the brow space was covered with copper sulphate or finely grated malachite, and to emphasize the upper eyelid, men and women used a mixture of green copper and lead sulfide, ore. Such paint for the eyelids (repellant) gave the eyes not only a large, beautiful almond-shaped shape, but was also used as an insect repellent, served as a cure for suppuration of the eyes and for trachoma. The Egyptians also used whitewash to make their faces pale, for their cheeks they used orange-red blush made from the raw materials of plants and shrubs, they also blushed and painted their lips with red clay powder, palms, feet and fingernails and toenails were covered with pink henna. They washed away the dirt with ashes, crushed bricks or fine sand.

Due to the serious attitude to rituals in ancient Egypt, not only the living were made up. Every day, with reverent care, the statues of the gods were decorated with cosmetics. They did the same with those who went to another world. For the makeup of the deceased and anointing them with incense, there were special vessels, ointments and make-up accessories.

From Egypt cosmetics penetrated to Greece, and later to Rome.

3) Ancient Greece - the cult of beauty.
The very word "cosmetics" comes from the Greeks, it means "order" or "putting in order." This term was interpreted as the art of maintaining health, improving the beauty of the body and correcting shortcomings. Ancient Greece was a civilization of beauty, its influence on later Western cultures was so great that culture and art formed the so-called classical ideal of beauty. Unlike Egypt, the desire for beauty here was shared by all sectors of society. Also, the Greeks spread in Europe a lot of cosmetics and recipes, as well as the cult of the body and baths and the concept of beauty. The greatest attention was paid to body care. Women and men went in for sports, because the canons of Greek aesthetics did not allow either magnificent forms or voluminous breasts. Body care addictions materialized in the baths. The bath procedure was preceded by a variety of physical exercises. Body massage also played an important role here. Greek philosophers recognized beauty as one of the virtues of a person, believing that beauty and health are the main virtues, and well-being was ranked third.

Cosmetics in ancient Greece and Rome were a must-have addition to a costume. A variety of cosmetic products are mentioned in many ancient Greek monuments, including Homer's Odyssey. Also, the information of the father of Medicine Hippocrates, who argued that beauty can be preserved with the help of moderate nutrition, diet, massage, sports and outdoor activities, speaks about the secrets of female beauty. Images of Greek and Roman women at the toilet have also been preserved.

Make-up in Greece and Rome was moderate, humane, because excessive use of cosmetics was the lot of public women, of whom there were many in the Ancient World. The birth of Christianity tempered passions and taught women not to adorn themselves at all and avoid vainglorious temptation, to be beautiful in soul and heart, and not in lips, which were considered the offspring of vice. But, nevertheless, it is to the Greeks that we owe the appearance of white powder based on lead, which was used until the 19th century. It was applied in a thick layer on the face, and it gave a person a languid and alluring appearance, while hiding the effects of skin diseases, although lead, in the end, completed the destruction caused by the disease. The basis of the make-up of Greek women was black and blue paint for the eyes, cheeks were blushed with carmine, lips and nails were painted to match, they used a huge amount of white, powder for shoulders and hands, faces, powders for eyelashes and eyes, perfumes. Aromatic essences, perfumes, flower oils were placed in elegant ceramic bottles. Polished bronze mirrors were a luxury item and were very expensive. Cosmetics were stored in beautifully painted vessels, which were often works of art. In ancient Greece, not only women, but also men took care of their appearance.

4) Rome is a continuation of the aesthetic traditions of Ancient Egypt and Greece.
In different periods of the development of the Roman state, especially during the Empire, fabulous amounts of money were spent on cosmetic products. Thanks to trade links with Egypt and the Middle East, a huge amount of exotic whites, eye shadows, hair removal or coloring products, creams, rubbings and exotic ointments flocked to Rome. Powders and ointments were especially valued, which supposedly gave the skin a gleam of gold, brought from Egypt. They were credited with magical properties. Thus, the treasury was empty and the funds were melting, the Roman Senate, in order to stop the leakage of funds, restricted the import of perfumery goods from outside. The Roman scholar Pliny the Elder wrote that India, China, the countries of the Arabian Peninsula, according to the most conservative estimates, extort one hundred million sesterces from the Roman treasury every year.

All Romans wanted to look attractive and strove for this by taking care of their appearance. However, unlike Greece, there was no single ideal of beauty. Roman perfume shops sold aromatic products intended for men and women. Pliny the Elder described many of the cosmetics popular with the Romans: soap for dyeing red hair, white lead for the face, lotion made from almond oil with milk, tooth powder made from crushed horn and pumice. And to fight wrinkles, Pliny recommended lipstick made from linseed oil with fat extracted from a bull's leg. For the skin, body and face, there were palm tree oils, for hands - mint oils, for hair - ointments from the essential oil plant marjoram. Roman women rubbed their faces, backs, breasts, and arms with chalk powder mixed with white lead to whiten their skin. The blush on the cheeks was induced with the help of wine yeast and ocher. Eyes and eyebrows were summed up with special black pencils, slates, and soot. To guide all this beauty, the Romans kept special slaves. Also, the Romans resorted to folk remedies. At night, they lined their cheeks with baked bread, and during the morning toilet, the maid, first of all, removed the adhering bread from the hostess. Then the face was washed with donkey's milk, which was attributed with the power to preserve the beautiful color of the skin. According to Pliny, some Roman women washed their faces up to seventy times a day.

In the Roman Empire, everyone was obsessed with the truth, men as well as women collected cosmetic recipes. The ancient Roman physician Galen made the beauties happy with his famous cream, the recipe of which laid the foundation for the cosmetic formulation. Galena cold cream is a flavored emulsion of wax and spermaceti in equal amounts and some kind of oil, usually almond. The Romans kept their ointments in alabaster pots or horn flasks.

Also, the ancient Romans often resorted to the use of strong bleaches and hair dyes, and often turned out to be bald. However, before the society lady was forced to put on a wig, she often tried to fix the matter with the help of savory balms and ointments from ordinary manure. The Romans were literally obsessed with blond hair. Materials and jewelry were used for hairstyles.

Perfumes were also in great demand, but they were completely different from what we are used to seeing them. The functions of spirits were performed by ointments. The favorite aromatic substance of the commander Gaius Julius Caesar was a solid perfume - the Telium ointment, made from olive oil and special grade orange peel. Spirits were added to expensive wines, sprinkled on the circus arena, the stage in theaters. Emperor Nero spent a huge amount of perfumes, fragrant powders, resins, essences on the funeral of his wife. Wealthy matrons had special travel bags (“women's world”) containing paints and tools for cosmetics. The caustic satires of the Roman poets Ovid, Horace, Lucian, who ridiculed the Roman matrons for their excessive passion for cosmetics, have come down to our time.

Also, cosmetics in Rome was closely related to the hygiene of the whole body. The first well-known public baths were created: the Caracal baths for 1600 people, even larger Diocletian baths for 3000 people, and there were also solariums. The ancient Roman baths (terms) were a kind of clubs, and the Romans could not leave them for days on end, where special slaves served them. The air of the thermae was saturated with aroma. The slaves specialized in certain procedures: the bath - cosmetics slaves, who rubbed the body with aromatic compounds, did massages, therapeutic compounds and souls. Tonsores - sheared and shaved, as they were trained in the skills of hairdressers and barbers. There were also make-up and clothing makers who generally catered to the Romans who did not have their own slaves.

The cult of the bath flourished and any self-respecting Roman or Greek built a bath. Cold or warm water was not enough for aristocrats - fragrant baths came into fashion. Caligula and Nero bathed in fragrant oils, and the Egyptian queen Cleopatra and the famous Roman beauty Poppea. who became the second wife of Emperor Nero, systematically took donkey milk baths in the hope of getting rid of wrinkles in this way. Even during his travels, Poppea was accompanied by a convoy of 500 donkeys. Apparently, protein substances in natural milk were irreplaceable. Poppea was the first woman in history to be the author of cosmetic recipes.

5) Byzantium.
Byzantium gradually, thanks to the proximity of the East, began to return the fashion for decorative cosmetics. Among the beauties of Constantinople, the legendary Empress Theodora, a former circus actress, who understood a lot about external effects, was especially famous. But only the hair in Byzantium was assigned a minimal role, they were constantly hidden under the veil of mafor, which was preserved in Europe and in the Middle Ages, until the Renaissance.

6) The Middle Ages - the decline of aesthetics.
The woman of the Middle Ages experienced the consequences of an era marked by the severity of morals, endless wars, wholesale epidemics. Hordes of crusaders, returning from the Arabian lands, brought oriental cosmetics to Europe, among them refreshing rose water, which was prepared from rose petals according to a special recipe. Subtle, pleasant aroma evoked memories of a beautiful flower. Professor of anatomy Heinrich Mondvil in a book on cosmetics, created by him for noble people in 1306, wrote about the effect of aromatic agents on the general condition of a person, assured of their magical power. Also, the Crusades introduced the knights and their companions to Muslim and Arabic makeup - darkened lush eyebrows, lined eyes, a dark mouth, and even painted hands and feet, which is still preserved in the Maghreb countries today.

In a word, these wars gave rise to contacts and exchanges with other cultures. As a result, despite the strict prohibitions of the church, new methods of applying makeup and recipes for cosmetics came into use. The first dressing table-bureau appeared. Over time, the habits of care and hygiene of the body weakened more and more, perfumes with a strong aroma increasingly began to serve as a substitute for elementary body hygiene.

7) The Renaissance is a new flowering of aesthetics.
Following the Middle Ages, the Renaissance comes - an era in which aesthetic values, forgotten since the Middle Ages, receive a new development - this is the heyday of Italian art, the prosperity of patrons, the assertion of the philosophical concept of man as a "whole man" without specialization. Aesthetics reaches unprecedented heights of sophistication in all areas of creativity, beauty becomes universal, and therefore female aesthetics becomes part of the harmony that embraces the life of Italy in the Renaissance, this country turns into a European center of elegance. New trends in fashion, in the art of beauty and aesthetics, were distributed outside of Italy, and their influence was felt at the courts of Europe. In the 16th century, monks in the church of Saita Mario Navello in Florence set up the first major laboratory for the production of cosmetics and medicines.

The ideal of beauty of noble Italian ladies was a body of very rounded shapes, a large open forehead, slightly noticeable eyebrows and whitish skin (avoid tanning), blond hair was synonymous with good taste, and to make it so, the most incredible mixtures of extracts were prepared. During this period, the first treatises on the art of beauty and cosmetics appeared in France and Italy.

The Italian monk A. Firenzuola compiled a treatise on female beauty. He wrote that the forehead should be twice as wide as it is high; with light smooth skin and not too narrow temples. Eyebrows are dark, silky, thicker towards the middle; the white of the eye is bluish, the eyes are large enough and protruding, the eyelids and eye sockets should have white skin with barely noticeable veins, and the eyelashes should not be too dark, the lips should not be too thin and lie beautifully one on the other. The teeth are not too sharp, ivory. The neck is white and rather long than short, the shoulders are broad, etc.

Italian painting of the 16th century by Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, Veronese, Titian makes it possible to admire the beauties who corresponded to the ideal of beauty described in the treatise. In the city-states of Italy - Rome, Naples, Florence - special perfume shops arose, where they sold all kinds of products "to maintain beauty", but often they included poisonous components. More than 300 cosmetic recipes were known. Cosmetics were dominated by red and white colors. Face painting has become a great art that every woman should have mastered. Florentines showed particular virtuosity in face painting. Even respectable matrons resorted to this art on holidays. The Duchess of Milan, Catherine Sforza, wrote a treatise that introduced the rules of applying paint and make-up techniques. For both women and men, an open high forehead was considered beautiful. Therefore, they resorted to plucking eyebrows and even eyelashes, so as not to disturb the smoothness of the lines, in line with fashion.

Catherine de Medici was interested in everything related to aesthetics, she spent a lot of time studying ointments and combinations of creams. Later, when she became Queen of France, she took with her the best perfumers in Florence. It was she and her closest friend who were the first to open the Beauty Institute.

Thus, the Renaissance, born in Italy, brought back interest in human carnal beauty, which began to have a rather erotic beginning in the 16th century with the advent of corsets that could lift the appetizing breasts and tighten the waist. But, despite the ongoing changes, personal hygiene still left much to be desired. Queen Margaret of Valois (Margo) always had to comb her hair with incredible effort, because she did not do it often, and washed her hands once a week.

8) Baroque.
The Baroque loved flesh. This can be judged by the huge series of paintings by Rubens, where he captured the images of ladies full of health who loved to drink, eat and indulge in love pleasures. Red blush, a blooming look, a healthy complexion have come into fashion. Even perfumes, following the Baroque tradition, began to have "kitchen smells" of fish, meat, and fruit.

9) Far East.
Cosmetics developed mainly in the southern countries - Persia, India, Arabia, South America, China, Japan and Korea, there was a refined fantasy in aesthetics. All sorts of means were used to hide the typical yellowish skin tone.

Ancient Persia.
A wide variety of cosmetic products were made in Persia: fragrant oils, ointments, powders, paints, etc. Also, great importance was attached to skin care not only of the face, but of the whole body. In a hot climate, people tried to protect it from the sun. For six months or more, women of privileged classes were subjected to myrrh and balsam rubbing and ablutions with milk and aromatic substances, since it is possible that even then people assumed that rubbing the body with various essential oils helps the skin reflect the sun's rays and protects it from burns, insect bites, and also promotes a beautiful dark and even tan.

India.
India was a country rich in raw materials for the art of beauty. From time immemorial, decorative cosmetics have been used in India during religious ceremonies and in everyday life. Moreover, it has not undergone significant changes. Flowers and saffron powder are used daily. Susrute, one of the oldest medical books in the world, explains how to take care of your appearance with essential oils, along with many recipes for using herbal extracts for cosmetic purposes.

China.
The tradition of China in cosmetics, as in many other things, has a long history. Her aesthetic canons were based on a woman with impeccably executed make-up and with the most well-groomed skin. The image of Chinese beauties, described by Marco Polo, excited troubadours and knights. Make-up consisted of applying a thin layer of pink, red or orange powder. The eyes were lined with chopsticks dipped in mascara. Also, in order to look more like a pale moon, the ladies plucked their eyelashes and eyebrows, shaved off the hair around their foreheads. The skin was treated with creams made from fruit pulp, tea oils, or animal fats. Jasmine flowers, camellias or aromatic woods such as patchouli, as well as musk were used for perfumes. The clear attention given to aesthetics by Chinese women is widely reflected in Chinese poetry and Chinese art in general.

Japan.
The "Land of the Rising Sun" was largely influenced by the art of beauty and cosmetics in China. Body care in Japan is associated with religious life, and therefore men and women there have always been treated with respect to the world of aesthetics. Oils, pigments and powders from the saffron dye, among other cosmetics, were used by Japanese women to create an attractive appearance. Mascara gave expressiveness to their eyes, their hair was monitored in the most careful way, because black, shiny and lush hair was a symbol of outstanding beauty. In every century, Japanese painting has left graphic images of the tender cares that Japanese women devoted to the beauty of the body and face.

10) 17-18 century. France, England, Russia.
In Europe, cosmetics were widely used by different segments of the population. With the arrival of Catherine de Medici in the French capital, Paris will become and remains the European center of fashion and aesthetics to this day. From the end of the 17th century and throughout the 18th century, Parisian women were gripped by the "ruddy fever". Under Henry 3, even the court gentlemen discharged and blushed no worse than the ladies. And noble ladies painted themselves not only lips, cheeks, eyebrows, but even ears, shoulders and arms. How tenacious this fashion was, shows the incident with the Duchess of Nivernay, the wife of the French envoy in Rome. This lady refused to blush, but a high-ranking entourage attacked her husband with persistent requests to influence his wife. And the Duke, who hated rouge, had to send a courier to his wife, begging her to obey the prevailing custom in France.

Blush gained such weight and thanks to the efforts of the mistress of Louis 14, the Marquise Pompadour, it was with her that they became an integral part of the toilet. Anyone who did not want to use them was not allowed to the court. Under Pompadour, along with blush, it was considered fashionable to powder hair.

Under Marie Antoinette, the dominance of rouge weakened, but not for long. Josephine, wife of Napoleon 1, introduced a mixture of white with rouge. The emperor himself encouraged this fashion. One day he sternly asked a court lady: “Why did you come without rouge? You are too pale." And when she replied that she had forgotten, Napoleon exclaimed: “Is it possible that the lady forgot to blush ... women have two things to face blush and tears.”

In the 17th century, nicknamed "gallant", there was a fashion for powder, and painted faces among men and women were an ordinary phenomenon and amazed by its diverse variations. And the first who introduced powder into fashion, which survived until the Revolution of 1789, was the legislator in matters of fashion and make-up, the king of the court of Versailles - Louis 14. He also compiled a “map of tenderness”, which indicated the colors of lips, cheeks, eyes. Trade with China brought into fashion faded rice powder, which was in mass use in the 18th century, when not only the face, but also wigs and hairstyles were powdered, protecting precious clothes from the powder with a special powder cape. Thus, in France, the courtiers of Louis 14 ladies and gentlemen resembled flirtatious, fragile, porcelain, painted dolls, since powder, rouge and white wigs equalized all ages.

The painting of the face at that time was so complicated and required such skill that the ladies even invited artists for this, and they all seemed to be tailored according to one pattern.

The English Queen Elizabeth 1, in order to emphasize the natural pallor, put masks on her face: from egg white, gypsum, clay and white lead, which gave rise to a fashion for a bloodless face, and the thicker the layer, the better. The whiteness of the face, in contrast to the peasant's red cheeks, indicated a noble origin for this reason, the nobles carefully avoided the sun's rays. The then fashion gravitated towards pomp and pretentiousness, not only in makeup, but also in clothes and hairstyles, which were created using all kinds of pillows, linings and wire skeletons. Elizabeth, when she grew old, hid her thinning hair under intricate wigs and painted blue veins on her bleached forehead to give the impression of young translucent skin. As for clothes, the clothes of the courtiers were so bulky that it was very difficult to take them off, let alone wash them. Therefore, personal hygiene was reduced to nothing - the inevitable unpleasant, bad odors were desperately fought by spraying the body with such strong fragrances as - musk. The exception was Madame Du Barry, who attracted attention at court by dousing herself with cold water every day. But all this was changed by the great French Revolution. The aesthetic excesses of the nobility ceased, and only with the coming to power of Napoleon in France did the traditions of caring for appearance revive.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, all these absurd attempts to hide the signs of impending old age, as well as bad nutrition, a vicious dissolute life and white lead powder, to no small extent contributed to the fact that pimples and pockmarks appeared on the faces of noble persons, which no cosmetics could hide. . As a result, there was a fashion for plasters and flies. As a rule, they were cut out in the form of small circles or figures from black or red silk, taffeta, velvet, and pasted on the affected areas of the face and body, thus showing the signs to the beloved. The position of each fly meant the location of the spirit or heart, which made the declaration of love more obvious. False eyebrows made of mouse skin or marten hair served as reliable decorations of the same kind. They were willingly worn by both women and men, despite the fact that all these tricks more than once put their owner in piquant situations. Cheek pads caused no less inconvenience. They served to restore the natural rounded shape of the cheeks, which completely disappeared after the removal of rotten teeth. Because of these pillows, any conversation usually stopped as soon as it had time to begin. Even more serious damage was done to the eyes. They were instilled with belladonna, or "sleepy dope," to dilate the pupils and stimulate sexual arousal. Abuse of belladonna led to irreversible loss of vision.

Meanwhile, hairdressers gradually replaced the court maids, creating eccentric wigs and hairstyles. On the heads of fashionistas and fashionistas, multi-storey labyrinths were erected from frames, pads and hair, held on by glue from lard. The construction of such structures was accompanied by great inconvenience, so that the hairstyles were tried not to be touched until they fell apart by themselves. It is quite natural that lice, fleas and cockroaches found shelter in hair labyrinths, and finding a mouse nest in one's own hairstyle was quite common. Resourceful perfumers, kuafer hairdressers invented: complex odorous ointments, creams, aromatic essences, perfumes, colognes, toilet water, lipsticks, blush, pencils, powder from wheat and rice flour. All these funds were no longer prepared in an artisanal way, but they could be bought in luxurious salons. Sometimes poisonous powders were added to some cosmetics. Cunning and evil rulers used the services of perfumers. So, for example, the famous Rene Florentine, who settled on the Changer Bridge, made lipsticks, powders, perfumes that hid poison under beautiful packaging. During the time of Queen Catherine de Medici, many people were killed, objectionable to her, because of her luxurious "gifts" containing deadly poisonous substances.

There were also certain laws for all these quirks of the past. For example, the Senate in Frankfurt am Main issued a decree stating: “If any of the men in our city are forced into marriage by deception, using various counterfeit means, such as: rouge, whitewash, lipstick, perfume, false teeth , false hair, pads instead of breasts and the like, the woman is subject to trial for witchcraft and the court may declare the marriage invalid.

In Russia, in the era of the Directory and the Empire, rouge was not worn, it was fashionable to be deathly pale, sickly and languid. The girls ate chalk, drank vinegar, and painted their arm veins blue to look marble cold. It was only during the reign of Elizabeth and the era of romanticism that followed that that ideas about color changed. Interest in Italy and the East brought brighter colors of blush and lipstick into fashionable make-up. For this, a variety of dyes were used. For example, in the villages vegetables and garden fruits were used. Cheeks were blushed with cherries, raspberries, beets, eyebrows were inked with soot, coal or burnt cork, eyebrows were dyed with grated brick, and flour was used to whiten the face. Also, white skin was emphasized by makeup of the teeth. The coquette Cora Pearl, famous in Paris in the 1860s, dyed her teeth yellow to highlight the whiteness of her skin, and the beauties of the Second Empire, especially demimondines like Paiva and Castiglione, were still afraid of tanning.

In the book “On the Russian State”, the famous English diplomat and traveler J. Fletcher wrote that “Russian women, beautiful by nature, strongly paint and blush, which everyone can notice. However, no one there pays attention to this, because they have such a custom that not only their husbands quite like it, but even they themselves allow their wives and daughters to buy white and rouge for painting their faces. Powder and blush were applied in a thick layer, because of this, the face resembled a mask. At many hours of entertainment festivities, the ladies had to correct their makeup, since zinc white, which was very popular among fashionistas, dried out and fell off in pieces from the face.

The German traveler Adam Olearius mentions the appearance of Russian beauties that struck him: “Russian women in the cities all almost blush, moreover, extremely rude and unskillful; when you look at them, you might think that they smeared their faces with flour and then painted their cheeks with a brush; they paint their eyebrows and eyelashes black and sometimes brown.” Nobles, court nobility acquired paints and ointments brought from Europe. French ones were especially appreciated, the aroma of which and elegant packaging did not leave anyone indifferent. The so-called herbal cosmetics, which have been preserved for centuries, were also used, these are odorous herbs, infusions, powders from crushed petals and leaves.

Fashion in high society for flies came to Russia from France. They had the most curious names, which did not correspond to either shape or color, and gradually increased in size. For them, jewelers specially made tiny elegant boxes - “mussels” made of precious wood or ivory, inlaid with diamonds, sapphires, amethysts. Mussel women were carried with them, and they became an obligatory accessory of the costume. Cosmetics were used by both women and men.
At the end of the 18th century, cheap books began to be published in Russia, as well as women's magazines, which gave a huge amount of advice on how to prevent and eliminate wrinkles, this first sign of waning youth. Ninon De Lanclo advised "if you want to remain beautiful, cling with all the forces of despair to the passing youth." Also, for prevention, it was recommended to keep an even expression on the face, do not constantly frown your eyebrows, do not wrinkle your forehead, nose, do not press your hands to your face. To avoid wrinkles, cold and hot washes, douches and various cosmetics were offered: toilet water, creams, plant extracts. It was recommended to reduce existing wrinkles with the help of special daily exercises, massage, as well as with the help of herbal juice, leaves, flowers. White lily juice with honey and lemon juice was considered especially effective. To achieve smoothness and whiteness of the skin, it was necessary to use melon seed, grated with bean flour, alternating this mask with rubbing with cucumber juice, for soft skin it was advised to cover the face all night with steamed veal. And to get rid of freckles, restless young ladies had to rub their faces with crushed magpie eggs.

The memory of the beauties of that time was preserved in the immortal canvases of Russian artists Matveev, Argunov, Rokotov, Levitsky, Borovikovsky, Nikitin, Tropinin and others.

11) 19th century.
In 1860, a technological laboratory was established in St. Petersburg - now it is the Northern Lights perfumery association. In 1864, a perfumery and cosmetic establishment Brocard Partnership was opened in Moscow, which, after the nationalization of the factory in 1918, was renamed Novaya Zarya, which became widely known in our country and in Europe. Brocard's predecessor, Alphonse Rallet, a Frenchman, founded a factory in Moscow that produced: soap, powder, lipstick, called "Partnership Rallet" (currently it is the Rassvet factory).

Perfumes made in Russia were not inferior in quality to French ones. Originally designed, high quality, domestic perfumery has gained recognition in the world market. Russian perfumes won prizes at international exhibitions, and became famous at domestic competitions. A lot of noise was made by the “novelty” created at the Russian perfume factory - a surprise box of 10 miniature elegant items: the original packaging of perfume, soap, cologne, powder, lipstick, sachets (dry perfumes made from aromatic plants), small elegant silk, velvet bags containing aromatic substances for linen, dresses, hair brushes. All this won the hearts of fashionistas.

At the end of the 19th century, the art nouveau, or in Russian "modern" style, appreciated the deathly pale decadent women even more. The ladies were powdered and whitened, gracefully summed up their eyes and polished their nails with polysuar.

In the 20th century in Russia, for the first time, cosmetics was recognized by law in 1908, and the Moscow Institute of Medical Cosmetics became its educational practical center. A special circular was developed and issued. It detailed what needs to be done in order to obtain a certificate for the right to engage in medical cosmetics.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, a rise in the development of light industry began to be felt, scientists make many discoveries in various fields of science. In addition, many private beauty salons were opened. There were special works, collections on cosmetic preparations, medical cosmetics and care of appearance and use of decorative cosmetics. All this left an imprint on the development of cosmetics - it has become more perfect.

The war of 1914-1918, like the 2nd World War, partly freed women from the stereotype of the “beauty queen” that oppressed them. The women who worked at the factory cut their hair for safety and convenience, no longer embarrassed by the need to freshen up makeup under prying eyes.

In 1918, Max Factor introduced the principle of color harmony in makeup. Makeup owes its new birth to him, for the first time in the history of cosmetics, he pointed out that powder, blush, mascara and lipstick should be consistent in tones and natural complexion. By the end of the 70s, he introduced a cosmetic line of color makeup.

In 1920, tanning on the Côte d'Azur came into vogue and became a prestigious occupation.
Bright make-up came into fashion in the 20th century from the stage thanks to Diaghilev and became a real art. The silent cinema of the era of the First World War changed even more attitude towards female make-up, the first vampire ladies appeared on the screen, simply vamp women. Tousled cheeks, dark eyelids, a bright burgundy-black mouth gracefully curved in the shape of a bow and a chalk-pale face of actress Theda Bara became the latest fashion statement and inspired many Russian actresses - Zoya Karabanova, Natalya Kovanko and Vera Kholodnaya. The end of the First World War, which ruined and destroyed the institution of the family in Europe, corresponded in time to the jazz era. Charleston and girl-boys created "Art Deco" makeup. whose famous images were actresses Louise Brooks, Lea de Putti and Gloria Swanson. Dark bangs, a small mouth and black eyelids were the touches of that turbulent time, when men were powdered with dark powder wanting to be like the Latin lover Rudolf Valentino, and women were still white.

The crisis of the 1930s created the make-up of the patriotic mistress, with plucked and high-drawn eyebrows, high "Slavic" cheekbones and red lips, combined with bright nail polish and false "Hollywood" eyelashes, as well as wavy blond hair. Such make-up remained eternal thanks to the immortal images of Princess Natalie Paley, actress Jean Harlow, Lombard King, Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietrich, Vivien Leigh.

In 1935, the Russian cosmetologist and perfumer R. A. Fridman developed a classification that became widespread throughout the world. He singled out 3 types in cosmetics: decorative, medical (medical), hygienic (preventive).

In 1937, the Institute of Beauty and Hygiene was organized in Moscow, later renamed the Institute of Medical Cosmetics. Similar institutions began to operate in different cities.

The 1940s were marked by Marlene Dietrich. A languid look from under thick eyelashes, an alluring smile, hair styled in waves and curls with arc-shaped eyebrows drawn in pencil, heavily painted eyelashes in several layers.

In the 1950s, with the advent of fashion magazines, female models (teenager style) were the standard of beauty. Long bright plump lips combined with Asian eyeliner and very lush eyelashes came into fashion thanks to the Russian fashion model Christian Dior-Alla Ilchun. The make-up is dominated by light light tones, special eyebrow pencils, black liquid eyeliner and volumizing mascara, as well as long-lasting matte red lipstick.

In the 1960s, the "twist and space age" youth revolution favored blondes and light lipstick, and the "hippie" style in 1969 introduced floral makeup on the cheeks and forehead. In the early 60s, less accentuation of the lips led to more expressiveness of the eyes - liquid eyeliner, false eyelashes, make-up removal pads begin to be used.

The retro of the 1970s brought back a lot of pre-war cosmetics into fashion, and the "disco" preferred mother-of-pearl shadows and natural lip gloss and makeup became exciting, joyful, but the "hippie" movement inspired a new direction calling "back to nature", and many women threw away all their makeup and forgot about taking care of their appearance. But even the most beautiful woman looks a hundred times better if she takes care of her appearance, so the results of this movement turned out to be mostly pale and uninteresting.

The 1980s are the height of fashion. Contrasting colors, bright coloring, very wide dark eyebrows, pink and black lipstick, black and blue eyeliners on the upper and lower eyelids, made with an AI liner or a dark contour pencil, men also begin to use cosmetics. Coinciding with the arrival of the 1980s, there was a resurgence in demand for natural products such as lanolin, oatmeal, hazelnuts, and herbs. Cucumber, avocado oil, lemon and strawberries topped the list of "fruit and vegetable" cosmetic raw materials.

In the early 1990s, make-up colors change. Shaggy long eyelashes, terracotta and natural shades in makeup, a boom of red lipstick are in fashion. In the mid-90s, eyeliner “ala 60s” was reborn and plump lips were in fashion. The end of the 90s is the era of natural minimalism. There are new tonal creams with a reflective effect, narrow eyebrows, make-up - “washed face” is transparent, light, natural, lipstick and blush of light, delicate, lilac, purple shades. Also, depending on age and taste, lipsticks of dark tones (for example, black) were used along with bright and saturated colors of shadows.

Metallic luminous colors, silver, bronze, gold are in fashion in the 2000s, products containing sparkles, mother-of-pearl are relevant, all kinds of applied materials are used. Make-up feeling of a holiday, the skin shines and glows, lip gloss is used. 2000s makeup is sensual and sexy.

The end of the 20th century - the beginning of the 21st century began to be called the era of "permissiveness". Crinolines, corsets, bustles were replaced by a naked body. Interest in a good figure pushed the development of new areas in sports (aerobics, shaping, bodybuilding). New revived trends are also associated with the cult of the body: tattooing, piercing, body art. New professions appeared: make-up artist, colorist, stylist.

Introduction

Having done makeup, you can not only refresh your face, give it a healthy look, but also correct small imperfections (small eyes, short and uneven eyebrows, narrow or, conversely, too full lips, light and short eyelashes). And with the help of corrective makeup, you can correct (oval of the face, shape of the nose and lips). It is necessary to observe the measure in applying paints, remember that a thick layer of makeup can only spoil the face. Makeup requires a serious individual approach. You can't blindly follow fashion. However, no matter what type of make-up you prefer: daytime everyday or evening femme fatale style, first of all you need to prepare your face. This is done with the help of several creams, including foundation, correctors and powder.

Purpose: to study the role of face correction and modeling in makeup.

Tasks: - review the history of makeup and cosmetics

• - learn makeup technology
• - to study corrective make-up
• -Perform corrective makeup

The history of the development of makeup and cosmetics

The word "make-up" has French roots, and entered the Russian language recently, just a couple of decades ago. However, the history of makeup began many centuries ago. Word " cosmetics" is of Greek origin from the word "kosmetike", and means the art of decorating. Only now, each nation had its own ideas about this art.

Initially, makeup, or rather, face painting, was used in rituals - religious and magical.

Make-up, if it could be called that at the time, was used for the war paint of warriors, and also as a sign of belonging to a certain caste. Therefore, he did not play a "decorative" role, but had a serious social or religious meaning. Of course, at that time they did not think much about the decorative aspect, such makeup - it was more important to frighten, amaze, plunge into confusion an opponent or enemy, inspire respect, horror, adoration, close to deification. The Nuba tribes in Sudan and Kriapo in Brazil, as well as the inhabitants of new Guinea, still have the most creative, one might say primordial, make-up ritual.

Even the people of the Stone Age tried to decorate their faces in various ways, making a wide variety of images on them. These were ornaments, elements of flora and fauna, symbolic symbols and much more.

For example, the Mayori tribes of New Zealand were famous for their mask-like tattoos on their faces, which were called "mocha". The "mocha" pattern was a rather complex and purely individual pattern. He performed several functions at once. This is an indicator of merit, and a designation of social status, and a special element of decoration. A warrior with a "mocha" mask who died during the battle was given special honors - his head was cut off and carefully kept as a memory of the past. But with the unfortunate who happened to die without such face decoration, they were treated quite severely. Their bodies were left to be torn to pieces by wild animals and birds.

But this did not last so long - women began to use makeup from the desire to be beautiful. Since ancient times, the painting of the face of women has received special attention. So, the wives of the Japanese Ainu natives had marks on their faces that betrayed their marital status, the number of children. In addition, the image on the face was a sign of endurance and fertility.

The ancient Egyptians were the pioneers of the art of beauty. It was they who, inventing compositions for embalming, discovered many different medicinal and cosmetic substances that could correct skin imperfections, decorate the face and body. Already in the time of Nefertiti, there was a traditional makeup kit - lipstick, blush, eyeliner and eyebrows.

Archaeological excavations have proved that in Egypt, not just cosmetics were used, here the art of makeup was brought to a cult. Carved on the walls of tombs and temples, recipes for numerous cosmetics: incense, ointments, creams, paints, which were originally used by priests to perform worship. It was the servants of the temple who were the first consumers and creators of cosmetics. But quickly gaining popularity, rich people began to use it, wanting to improve their appearance, both men and women. And the less wealthy were looking for a replacement in simple and improvised means. Taking care of your appearance was a top priority for every Egyptian. The Egyptians used eyebrow pencil, lipstick, nail and hair dye, and even "smelling water", i.e. our perfumery in the future. And also, blush - for this they used iris juice, which caused skin irritation, thereby giving the skin a red tint. And powder - a powder that gives the skin a matte finish and masks possible defects. Of course, the recipe was kept under seven locks. In some cases, cosmetics had a preventive value. For example, eyeliner not only by women, but also by men prevented inflammation of the eyelids from the blinding sun and dry wind. By the way, it was the great Cleopatra who created the first manual in the history of cosmetology, the book - "On Medicines for the Face"

However, makeup in those days was not welcomed everywhere. For example, the Jews considered cosmetics a great sin, because it emphasizes the sensuality of a person. But the inhabitants of Carthage not only used makeup on a daily basis. They went further - and in addition to eyeliner, blush and lipstick, they also began to use face tattoos. In ancient Greece, exclusively natives of Asia, courtesans, painted. And only after the campaigns of Alexander the Great, the Greeks began to cover their faces with whitewash, line their lips, eyes and eyebrows, blush their cheeks and lighten their hair. Behind them, this fashion was adopted by the Romans. The well-known myths of Ancient Greece introduced us to such a character as Aphrodite. Everyone and everything knows about her beauty, so it is not surprising that the Greeks consider her the progenitor of means to maintain beauty. Greek women in their "beauty bag" also used white for the face, black paint for eyeliner, blackened eyelashes with soot, and blushed lips and cheeks with the help of red lead plant. Although, perhaps it was thanks to the pharaohs that Greece learned about cosmetics. But this is not so important, given the contribution that the Greeks made to the history of make-up, writing many books on facial care, including "Kosmetikon", the writings of the doctors Galen, Critias and Hippocrates.

The Roman Empire at one time identified two main areas in cosmetics - decorative and medicinal. At the same time, many decorative products were prepared on the basis of toxic, and sometimes even poisonous substances.

In the Roman Empire cosmetics was a profitable business. Huge amounts of money were spent every year to buy ointments and creams from Egypt. They were credited with magical properties, because they looked great, giving the face a unique glow of gold. Also in Rome, all kinds of oils and fats were often used as ointments, women began to remove unwanted body hair, brush their teeth and dye their hair in richer colors. It was the Romans who produced "Telium", "solid perfume" for the body, made from olive oil and orange peel, which Julius Caesar so adored. By the way, the slaves that adorned the body and face of Greek women were called "cosmetics", and now they are our irreplaceable cosmetologists.

The Ancient East. China, Japan, Korea- women preferred white and blush, trying to hide the yellowish tint of the skin.

Moon-faced graceful Chinese women sometimes used cosmetics without measure. They were thickly whitened, a special object of pride - arched eyebrows - was given a green tint, powdered with rice starch, saffron was added to the blush, teeth were gilded. Since all these cosmetics were extremely expensive, only a few representatives of the elite class could use them. But even for ordinary women, there has always been a place for experimenting with the gifts of nature, namely: plants, leaves and fruits of trees, berries.

In these countries, there was a real cult of female beauty, to maintain and improve which balms, plant extracts, mascara, face white, and nail polish were used. A thousand years before our era, the Indian writer Sustruta in his book "Knowledge of Life" even described the plastic surgery of the nose. Cosmetics have always had the same roots with medicine. Papyri devoted to medicine, contain cosmetic recipes often interspersed with prayers and spells.

And fabulous India, with its light saris, original jewelry and sophisticated traditions, used cosmetics to a minimum, only emphasizing the beauty of the face. Both women and men painted their eyes with antimony, their eyebrows were blackened with charcoal, their cheeks with cinnabar, their lips were given a golden hue, and their teeth were brown. The nails on the hands and feet, as well as the parting in the hair, were painted red or orange. In Muslim countries, especially in harems, women paid special attention to their appearance. Massages, taking baths with the addition of various oils, removing unwanted hair, caring for the nails of the hands, feet and, of course, the face - this is an everyday ritual.

Ancient Russia. We can say with confidence that women in Kievan Rus knew a lot about skin care for the face and body. The girls often washed their faces with morning dew, which gave them a unique freshness and energized them for the whole day. Cosmetics for the face, mainly based on natural ingredients and animal origin. For example, they washed their hair with an egg, and rinsed them with infusions of herbs. For the elasticity of the skin of the face, neck and hands, fermented milk products were used, for softening and restoring - fats and oils. Herbs also came to the rescue: mint, chamomile, cornflower, St. John's wort, coltsfoot, plantain, burdock, nettle, hops, oak bark. All kinds of ointments, tinctures, often of a medicinal nature, were made from them. And it was noticed in the "cosmetic bag" of Russian young ladies: for blush they used cherries, raspberries and beets, for the whiteness of the face - flour, eyebrows and eyelashes were inked with coal or soot. In Kievan Rus, women did this extremely ineptly and, in the words of Olearius, looked like "painted dolls." In 1661 Metropolitan of Novgorod forbade "whitewashed" women from entering the church.

After the fall of Rome, make-up traditions were preserved only in Italy, Byzantium and Muslim countries - the Christian church strictly condemned cosmetics.

At the same time, the Europeans at that time did not observe the elementary rules of hygiene. Imagine: Catherine de Medici washed only twice in her life - at baptism, and when she was washed before burial. What can we say about commoners. The scourge of that time was rickets. At the end of the XIV - beginning of the XV, women, imitating rickety ladies, began to pluck their eyebrows and hair over their foreheads. And to emphasize the whiteness of the skin, they released one playful curl from under the headdress or tied their foreheads with a narrow black ribbon.

Around the same time, the custom appeared in Italy to blacken teeth with antimony (all from the same imitation of rickety "beauties"), and Catherine and Marie de Medici brought this custom to France. Unusual fashion, passing through Europe, reached Russia, but somehow did not take root. According to Radishchev, in the 18th century only merchants blackened their teeth.

Cosmetics, despite the opposition of the church, finally took root in Europe in the 15th century, and it was used not only by women, but also by men.

The Duchess of Newcastle invented the famous flies to hide skin imperfections. They were cut out of taffeta or velvet in the form of various circles and flowers. They were pasted on the face, neck, chest, and each fly had a certain meaning. So, a fly over the lip meant coquetry, on the forehead - majesty, in the corner of the eye - passion. Ladies quickly picked up the fashion for a novelty, and began to use a special, "muscle" language. In 1680, the Marquise de Montespan, the mistress of Louis XIV, began to appear at the Court in full "battle" coloring - she was very white and blushed brightly. The court dandies quickly picked up this fashion, and thanks to this, it lasted until the beginning of the 18th century.

Already at this time, doctors were seriously concerned about the state of women's health. It turned out that their white harm not only the skin, but also the kidneys, facilitating the accumulation of toxic substances in them. In 1779, the French Royal Society of Medicine began testing cosmetics. However, their system remained until 1906 only a theory.

False eyebrows appeared in the 18th century. They were made from pieces of mouse skins. Well, since such a “beautiful” lady could seriously captivate the heart of even the notorious Casanova, the Senate in Frankfurt issued a decree that recognized the marriage as invalid if a man was forced to enter into marriage by fraud, using various counterfeit means, such as: blush, whitewash, lipstick , false hair, false teeth and the like. The woman in this case was tried for witchcraft.

In the XVIII century, cosmetics began to be mass-produced, at manufactories. Advertising of cosmetics appeared in newspapers and on special posters. Cosmetics were sold in beautiful porcelain jars and were very expensive. In the early and middle of the 18th century, contrasting makeup was in vogue: white skin (to emphasize the whiteness of the skin, fashionistas painted thin blue veins on their temples), scarlet lips, crimson cheeks, black eyelashes and boldly lined eyebrows, as well as a powdered wig. Cosmetics still remained hazardous to health - for example, there were cases of lipstick poisoning.

In Russia of the 17th century, with the advent of European attire, cosmetics began to be used much more widely. Powder and blush were applied in thick layers. At balls, the ladies had to touch up their make-up several times a night, because zinc white, very fashionable at that time, fell off in pieces when it dried up. In the 18th century, decorative cosmetics based on mineral salts appeared in Russia. In the era of Peter I, Russian ladies were no longer behind the European ones. At the same time, they bathed more regularly, which greatly surprised foreigners.

The 18th century was the heyday of French cosmetics. It was believed that the whiteness of the face should be uneven: the forehead should be lighter than whiskey. In the almanac "Library for Ladies", published in 1764, it was written that "around the mouth, the white color should cast the yellowness of alabaster." In favor was red, so bright that it produced an unnatural effect. This was especially noticeable on the bleached face.

In 18th-century France, socialites had no right to ignore rouge. The court of Versailles during the time of Louis XV was shocked when the bride of the Dauphin arrived in France, who knew nothing about rouge in her country. For the princess to blush, a court verdict was needed.

Cosmetics were also not welcomed in the USA. Until the 20s of the XX century, she was favorably treated only on the stage. Subsequently, it was Hollywood that was able to convince Americans by setting an example in the use of makeup.

The beginning of the scientific era in cosmetics is usually attributed to the 19th century. The concept of "Cosmetics" began to include procedures for the treatment of skin diseases, the prevention and elimination of its cosmetic defects, skin care for the face, neck, scalp, hands and feet. Gradually, cosmetics were divided into medical and decorative. This circumstance is very important, as it is associated with the redistribution of financial flows - any assurance of a therapeutic effect must be confirmed.

Snow-white skin was still in fashion at the beginning of the 19th century - however, already natural, without any whitewash. The beauties hid from the sun under a veil. Lipstick became a thing of the past, and cleanliness of the body and teeth was considered the height of civilization. The era of romanticism has come with its ideal of "airy" beauty - skin that is white to transparency and dark hair. Wigs were done away with for centuries. However, there was some overkill here: the young beauties drank vinegar and lemon juice, went hungry, did not sleep at night, in the belief that the pallor and blueness under their eyes would give them aristocratic chic.

Meanwhile, the production of cosmetics developed, more and more new products were invented, the beauty market expanded, and cosmetics became cheaper.

In 1863, the Bourjois cosmetics company launched rice powder, which became an instant bestseller. In 1890, they also invented Manon Lescaut compact powder, opening a new era in cosmetics. Powder was followed by dry compact blush "Pastel joues".

Russian industry also did not stand still. In 1843, the first perfume factory was built, its founder was a French citizen, merchant Alfons Antonovich Rale. Raw materials were still taken from abroad, but the finished product was successfully exported. The Ralle plant produced soap, toilet water, toilet vinegar, perfume, powder, lipstick. On the basis of this plant, a factory called "Freedom" was founded in Soviet times.

At the beginning of the 20th century, a matte complexion came into fashion. The development of cinema has made cosmetics an excellent advertisement, movie stars have become trendsetters. At the same time, the first beauty institutes opened.

1919 was a truly revolutionary year in the world of fashion - fashion models began to appear on the podium in full makeup. Their makeup looked rather peculiar - a heavily powdered face, lips with a "heart" of purple-burgundy color, eyebrows completely plucked and drawn anew in a thin semicircle.

The fashion for pallor was replaced by a tan, which became a symbol of well-being. In 1930, the first tanning creams appeared. Doctors began to recommend sea holidays - and immediately waterproof mascara was born.

Cosmetologists began to actively cooperate with physiologists and chemists. From that moment on, the requirements for cosmetics have changed radically: it has become not only harmless, but, if possible, also therapeutic.

The second half of the 20th century introduced the concept of image - a harmonious image of a woman: clothes, cosmetics and hairstyle were combined in a single stylistic ensemble. Each new high fashion collection was accompanied by a new make-up style.

In the 60s, skirts above the knee, shirt dresses, trousers, and platform shoes were in fashion. The “pay-girl” image was completed by shades of pastel colors, lipstick of a light, natural shade, false eyelashes, which gave charm and a special “childish” naivety.

In the 70s, the emphasis was on the eyes, the color of powder and lipstick approached the flesh. Glitter was added to the evening make-up. And in the early 80s, "fatal" women were again in fashion. Fashion designers offer a wide selection of clothes in dark colors, stylists offer contrasting makeup: white skin, bright blush and red lipstick.

Conclusion: Recently, fashion magazines constantly print reviews of makeup trends, and from different makeup artists. The freedom of creativity is truly unlimited, and fashion does not dictate strict rules. With the development of mankind, many things change, and cosmetics too. And now there are more and more new tools, technologies and manufacturers. This is a market where the fittest survive. And yet, this is a whole art, the art of makeup. Where the main rule is to emphasize the merits and hide the flaws.

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