Materials:
80 grams of red and beige camel hair, 5 knitting needles No. 2 and 2.5. On stocking needles No. 2 with red yarn, dial 64 loops for sizes 42-44, and 74 loops for sizes 45-47. Distribute stitches evenly on 4 needles. Knit 6-8 cm with an elastic band 2 x 2 (2 persons. p., 2 out. p.). Next, on knitting needles No. 2.5, knit 2 circular rows with the front stitch with beige yarn and proceed to knitting the strips, alternating 4 circular rows of beige yarn, 4 circular rows of red yarn, 2 rows of beige yarn. Then knit 2 rows of red and beige squares (2x2 loops), then again 2 rows of beige yarn and repeat the previous order of the stripes in a mirror image.
Having knitted the second red strip after the row with the “squares”, proceed to knitting the heel using the “boomerang” method.
The boomerang heel is knitted on the loops of the 1st and 4th knitting needles, which must be divided into 3 parts. Loops of the 2nd and 3rd knitting needles to postpone.
First part of the heel:
1st row: (front row) knit all the loops of the faces. and turn the job.
2nd row: (purl row) start by making a double loop: place the thread before work, insert the knitting needle into the 1st st on the right, remove the loop and pull the thread back tightly (so that holes do not form later). The loop scrolls on the knitting needle and becomes double. Place the thread again before work, knit the remaining loops out. and turn the job.
3rd row: at the beginning of the row, perform a double loop, then knit faces. n. to the double loop at the end of the row and turn the work. Do not knit a double loop!
4th row: at the beginning of the row, perform a double loop, then tie out. n. to the double loop at the end of the row and turn the work.
Then, on all the loops of the sock, knit 2 circular rows of faces. p., knitting in the 1st row each double loop as 1 loop. After that, the loops of the upper part of the foot are again put aside.
Second part of the heel:
1st row: (front row): loops of the right and middle knit faces. and turn the job.
2nd row: (wrong side): work a double loop, knit the remaining loops of the middle third. and turn the job.
3rd row: perform a double loop, tie faces. p. to a double loop, knit it as one loop of faces., 1st p. of the left third knit faces. and turn the job.
4th row: perform a double loop, tie out. p. to a double loop, knit it as one loop out., knit the 1st p. of the right third. and turn the job.
Having completed the formation of the heel, again knit in a circle on stocking needles all the loops of the sock to the end of the little finger.
To decrease the toe of the loop, divide it into 8 parts and knit the last 2 loops of each part together with the front loop, then repeat the decrease after 6 rows, after 5 rows, after 4 rows, after 3 and after 2 rows. Pull the remaining loops with a working thread, and fasten and hide the end.
Brief but step by step instructions with pictures:1. Cast on loops, guided by the pattern and the desired degree of fit.
2. Distribute these loops evenly on four knitting needles (of course, all this can be depicted on circular knitting needles).
3. Close into a ring and knit with the selected pattern (close carefully, without twisting, so as not to get a Möbius strip)
4. After the cuff is tied, go to the main pattern. Depending on the ratio of the densities of both knittings, an increase or decrease in loops may be required (I personally don’t change anything when combining elastic-satin stitch).
5. When the desired shaft length is reached, heel knitting begins. The heel is knitted on two knitting needles, the location of the change of rows depends on which knitting needles. This can be important when knitting striped socks and socks with a horizontal pattern. Where to place this "seam" is a matter of personal taste, it can be the inside of the foot (then there will be a right and left toe) or the rear-plantar part of the toe.
Personally, I usually add at the beginning of the first and at the end of the second heel needle for an additional loop. This loop goes into the hem loops from which the foot loops will then be recruited.
6. Heel height depends on individual feet, mainly on the "steepness" of the instep.
7. When the desired heel height is reached, the loops begin to decrease, forming the heel.
The total number of loops is divided by three (if the number of loops is not a multiple of three, then the "extra" loops are added either to the middle part or equally to the side parts, depending on the desired ratio of fullness-heel depth.
Personally, I start decreases in the purl row, so that at the end of these, I immediately proceed to a set of loops to continue knitting.
The last loop of the middle part is knitted together with the first loop of the side part. After that, the knitting unfolds, the first loop is removed, it is knitted to the penultimate loop of the middle part, the last loop of the middle part is knitted together with the first loop of the side part, again a turn and so on until all the loops of the side parts end.
it turns out:
8. Cast on loops. How exactly and how many loops for how many rows to dial - it depends on the personal style of knitting, on the pattern, yarn and the degree of perfectionism. Personally, when knitting with front stitch, I pick up one loop from each hem (I have one for two rows) does not pull anywhere and does not collect anything.
9. Next, knitting becomes circular again. The loops of the left knitting needles are knitted, loops are picked up along the second edge of the heel, half of the loops remaining during the formation of the heel are knitted on the same knitting needle (so that the number of loops on the "heel" knitting needles is equal).
10. Depending on the height of the heel, "extra" loops could appear, which form a heel wedge. They decrease depending on the desired shape of this very wedge.
Here I have three of them, reduced for 12 rows.
11. Next, knit in a circle until almost the required length is reached. The value of this "almost" depends on the method of closing. On thin yarn and when knitting with stockinette stitch, the simplest closing by knitting in each row, two loops together at the beginning or end of each knitting needle, looks normal.
In the presence of stripes-patterns or when knitting from thick yarn, this method does not look very good.
Personally, in such cases, I prefer a rounded toe.
The first and second spokes - the upper part of the foot, the third and fourth - the sole. For decrease: at the beginning of the first knitting needle, the first and second loops are knitted together with a slope to the left, at the end of the second knitting needle, the penultimate and last loops are knitted together with a slope to the right, the third knitting needle is like the first, the fourth - like the second.
Here I have decreased 3 times in every second row, and 3 times in every row.
The beginning of the decrease, side view:
View from above:
When five loops remain on the needles, I knit similarly to the heel, gradually decreasing the loops on both sides of the side track of two loops. I do this in pairs, on the first and fourth and second and third knitting needles.
As a result, four loops remain, which can simply be pulled together with a thread or closed with a knitted seam.
Of course, you should choose the degree of rounding and design of the toe, suitable for specific legs, pattern and yarn.
For example, with a 1x1 elastic band, I do not make this decrease scar of two loops, but I decrease the loops with an inclination to the other side and sew the remaining loops after rounding (the top with the sole) with a knitted seam.
TTX of the above socks:
Yarn: Tivoli "New Celtic Aran" (100% wool, 100g/150m)
Spokes: No. 4
Consumption for size 37-38: Bordeaux - 80g, white - 38g.
To smooth out the steps from the color change, I used the simplest method: in the last row of the current color, I knitted the last loop of the row together with the loop of the previous row (subordinate). upd: I made a picture to illustrate the process:
http://ru-knitting.livejournal.com/3553588.html?thread=70087988#t70087988
Here you can evaluate how much the junction of rows-bands is striking:
Naturally, on thinner yarn (pretty thick yarn 100g / 150m was used here) or made with straighter hands, this manipulation is less noticeable.
For those whose level of perfectionism does not want to put up with the fact that in one place of the strip there is one more stretched loop instead of the prescribed two, there are many other ways to smooth the transition.
Sizes: 30(38)46. You will need: yarn Novita 7 Veljesta (75% wool, 25% polyamide, 100 m / 50 g) -50 (50) 100 g terracotta color 644) 50 g each green (322) white (010) light gray 047) dark gray (044) and purple (573 colors, toe needles #3.5~4.
Elastic band 1 × 1: knit alternately 1 persons. n. and 1 out. n. Front surface: with circular knitting only faces. loops.
The sequence of alternating stripes: knit * 4 rows of purple thread, 1 row of light gray, 1 row of white, 2 rows of green, 1 row of purple, 3 rows of light gray, 2 rows of dark gray, 1 row of light gray, 2 rows of white, 1 a row of green, 2 rows of purple, 1 row of dark gray, 1 row of terracotta, 1 row of light gray, 2 rows of green, 2 rows of white, 2 rows of terracotta thread * repeat * - *.
Knitting density: 21 p. persons. satin stitch = 10 cm.
With a terracotta thread, dial 52 (64) 72 p., Distribute the loops into 4 knitting needles on the 1st and 4th knitting needles, 16 (20) 22 p., On the 2nd and 3rd knitting needles, 10 (12) 14 p. Change of row between the 1st and 4th knitting needles. Knit in the round for 3 cm in rib 1x1. Next, knit faces. stitch, alternating colored stripes in the specified sequence. With a work length of 8 (15) 15 cm, start decreasing in the center of the back of the sock (at the beginning of the 1st and at the end of the 4th knitting needles) as follows: knit at the beginning of row 1 of the front. sts and 2 sts together faces., then knit loops according to the pattern until 3 sts remain to the end of the row, knit 2 sts together faces. broach (= remove 1 p. as a person, knit 1 person. p. and pull it through the removed loop) and 1 person. n. Repeat the decrease in the next 8th row 1 more time and then in each 4th row 4 (6) 6 times. On each knitting needle you should get 10 (12) 14 p.
With a work length of 24 (34) 34 cm (after knitting the last row with terracotta thread), start knitting holes for the heel. To do this, remove the loops of the 1st and 4th knitting needles for extra. needle and set aside. Then cast on 30 (34) 38 sts with terracotta thread and divide these loops between the 1st and 4th knitting needles. Continue to knit on all loops in the round for 1 more row with terracotta thread and then knit stripes as before.
At the same time, after 2 rows, begin to knit the wedge of the instep. To do this, at the end of the 1st knitting needle, knit 2 sts together. and at the beginning of the 4th knitting needle, 2 sts together. broach. Repeat such decreases in every 2nd row until there are 10 (12) 14 stitches on each needle. Then knit straight 10 (14) 19 cm.
Then knit only with terracotta thread for faces. satin stitch, knitting a toe. To do this, at the beginning and in the middle of each knitting needle: knit 2 stitches together faces. = 32 (40) 48 p. Knit 4 rows straight. Work 1 more dec row = 24(32)40 sts, 3 no dec rows, 1 dec row = 16(24)32 sts. Continue in this way, working 1 less row between dec rows until no more only 8 p. Cut the thread, pull the remaining loops with the end of the thread and fasten.
Then return to the delayed heel loops, remove the loops from the additional. knitting needles on 1 knitting needle on another knitting needle, cast on loops along the bottom edge of the cut + 1 st between the knitting needles = 52 (60) 68 sts. Evenly distribute the loops on 4 knitting needles, 13 (15) 17 sts on each knitting needle. Knit with terracotta thread around the faces. stitch, while in the first row on each knitting needle, subtract 1 p. = 48 (56) 64 p. In the next row, knit at the beginning and in the middle of each knitting needle 2 p. together. = 40(48)56 sts. Work 0(5)5 rows without dec and 1 more row with dec = 40(40)48 sts. Work 4 rows without dec and 1 row with dec = 32(32)40 sts. Continue knit in this way, knitting 1 less row between rows with decreases, until only 8 stitches remain. Cut the thread, pull the remaining loops with the end of the thread and fasten off.
Many people like to knit striped multi-colored things. Even a product knitted with a front stitch, in the presence of bright colored stripes, will not look boring. So it is very easy to decorate and diversify knitting with horizontal stripes of different colors, and beginner knitters can. Knitting something striped and colorful, what could be easier?
Knitting stripes with knitting needles is often used in mittens, hats, sweaters. And where without striped socks and scarves? For some reason, it is striped socks and scarves that evoke pleasant memories of grandmothers needlewomen, don't they? Mittens, socks, and even sweaters are easy to knit in the round. But, in knitting colored stripes in a circle, when changing the color of the thread in a new row, a very unattractive step is formed.
When I knitted my first striped socks, I didn’t even think that it was possible to knit in any other way, without this terrible step, I had to put up with it. That was a long time ago…. There was no Internet then, or rather it was, there was even a whole huge social network that passed through years, generations, centuries and it was called “Grandmothers”. Unfortunately, the grannies of the needlewomen who surrounded me did not know how to knit even stripes .... With the advent of the Internet, the exchange of experience has become much easier.
In this article, I want to suggest that you peep a method that will allow you to get even stripes, without steps, when changing the color of the thread in knitting in a circle. A little lower in the photo you can clearly see that in the fabric knitted on circular knitting needles there is a smooth transition between stripes of different colors.
In the photo below you can see how colored knitting looks in a circle with and without a step
How easy and even to knit colored stripes on circular needles without steps, see my new video!
From the remnants of multi-colored yarn of the same thickness, you can knit funny socks for your child according to the classic pattern.
YOU WILL NEED
- only 30 g of yarn (dark pink, light pink, light green, lilac, yellow and blue yarn) (100% acrylic, 150 m / 50 g);
- a set of stocking needles.
PATTERNS
Elastic band 2 x 2: alternately 2 persons. p., 2 out. P.;
Facial surface: persons. R. - persons. p., out. R. - out. P.
Stripe sequence: 4 p. dark pink, light pink, light green, lilac, yellow and blue yarn.
KNITTING DENSITY
Facial surface: 10 p. and 16 p. = 4 x 4 cm.
Top part
Cast on 40 sts on knitting needles with dark pink yarn, close knitting in a circle and knit on 4 knitting needles (10 sts on each), alternating stripes:
1-16th circle. R.: rubber band 2 x 2;
17-24th circle. R.: persons. satin stitch.
Heel
Half of all loops circle. row (20 p.) remove on the auxiliary. knitting needle. Continue with dark pink yarn for the remaining 20 stitches and knit straight on two needles:
25-35th circle. R.: persons. satin stitch 11 p., finishing faces. beside.
Mentally dividing the work into 3 parts (1st side part - 6 p., Middle part - 8 p., 2nd side part 6 p.), start decreasing the next. way:
36th round. R. (outside side): knit 6 out. sts of the 1st side part, all sts of the middle part, except for the last loop. Knit it purl together with the adjacent loop of the 2nd side part, 5 p. of the 2nd side part were left untied. Turn the work;
37th round. R.: chrome remove and pull tight to the knitting needle, then knit all the loops of the middle part, except for the last one. Knit her together with a neighboring person. loop of the 1st side part (2 p. together faces. with an inclination to the left). Turn the work;
38-47th circle. R.: repeat the 36th and 37th rows until all side parts are knitted with the extreme loops of the middle part, finish faces. next, on the needles 8 p. Then lift on the knitting needles on the vertical sides of the heel on both sides, 6 p.
middle part
48-76 th circle. R.: knit full circle. p., performing the alternation of stripes in the specified sequence; There should be 10 sts on each needle.
toe
Knit with dark pink yarn. Mentally dividing the work into 2 parts (upper and lower), start decreasing on both sides of the toe next. way:
77th circle of the river: 1 persons. p., 2 p. together persons. with an inclination to the left, 14 persons. p., 2 p. together persons., 1 persons. n. (= upper part); 1 persons. p., 2 p. together persons. with an inclination to the left, 14 persons. p., 2 p. together persons., 1 persons. p. (= lower part), we get 36 p. on the needles;
78th circle of the river: 1 persons. p., 2 p. together persons. with an inclination to the left, 12 persons. p., 2 p. together persons., 1 persons. n. (= upper part); 1 persons. p., 2 p. together persons. with an inclination to the left, 12 persons. p., 2 p. together persons., 1 persons. p. (= lower part), we get 32 p. on the needles;